Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 110 ft (33 m)|
|FA:||G. Miller, L. Hill, 2009|
|Page Views:||1,333 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Mar 19, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Start up a narrow strip of rock into the corner as for Upper Grand Giraffe and climb a crack for 5 or 6 meters until it is possible to traverse up and right about 20 feet out, until you are in a line of good pockets and edges directly below the right-hand edge of the dark red alcove below... that is to say, below the belay of Grand Giraffe.
Climb directly upward on climbing slightly easier than, but reminiscent of 'Alice In Bucketland' or 'Body Tremors.' Wander slightly for gear and holds as necessary to keep the grade low and fall potential in control. The route will still be 'R' if you do this, but perhaps it spares the 'X' grade.
You can either stop and use gear or supplement the single-bolt belay, or continue on to the 6th-pitch variation of Grand Giraffe, which goes out slightly right onto an arete through the bulge above, then straight up to the top of the wall. This is more 5.6-5.7, 'R' climbing.
A 70m rope will get you there, and to the belay tree on top if you have enough gear and slings.