Avg: 3.8 from 190 votes
Trad, 4 pitches
|FA:||Layton Kor & Rick Horn, 1961. FFA: Pat Ament, Richard Smith & Tom Ruwich, 1967|
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|Shared By:||Patrick Vernon on Apr 7, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
The first pitch checks in at 10+ and is the strength-related crux of the route. Climb up into the underclings and up the left-angling seam above, 10+ protected by good pins. Continue up thirty feet until parallel with some pins leading straight left. Traverse straight left past three pins (9) to a belay at the base of a left-facing dihedral.
Pitch two is a short one, continue up the dihedral for fifty feet (6) to a belay ledge.
Pitch three has two options. We traversed left into the 11a/b third pitch of Doub-Griffith. I recommend this as the climbing is great on this variation and is pretty well protected with two bolts and a decent pin. For this variation, traverse down and left on runout 5.6 from the belay. Head up for and obvious bolt and continue up a sort of arete with an delicate 11 section after the pin. Continue up on 5.7 climbing to a small belay ledge at the base of the beautiful 70 degree slab.
The normal way to do this pitch is to traverse in from the left, above the bolts on nebulous terrain to join the second half of the pitch I just described (8+).
The fourth pitch is the best on the route, and is the route's technical and psychological crux. This pitch checks in at about 10c with delicate balancy laybacks and precise footwork. Climb up to the obvious bolt fifteen feet above the belay. The crux is the twenty-foot section above this bolt. Head for a shallow left-facing dihedral with a pin scar. Make a scary blind placement (small TCU, or stopper) hope that it is good (you can indeed get a good placement here, if you spend too much time trying to place this piece and fall, you will probably hit the belay ledge, not a good prospect) and climb right of the dihedral for ten more scary feet to reach a good hold. (If the TCU blows on a fall from this section, injury is almost definite, however as I said you can if you are patient get a good piece in here that will hold a fall from the crux moves above, it is a hard piece to place though). Continue up on slightly scary 5.9 that traverses left under an overhang and surmount this on good holds on the left (9), do some 5.8 out right to reach the upper ramp. This pitch is about 10c overall and instead of requiring pure strength, requires a good sense of body position and good footwork.