Avg: 3.8 from 181 votes
Trad, 4 pitches
|FA:||Layton Kor & Rick Horn, 1961. FFA: Pat Ament, Richard Smith & Tom Ruwich, 1967|
|Page Views:||32,404 total · 137/month|
|Shared By:||Patrick Vernon on Apr 7, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
The first pitch checks in at 10+ and is the strength-related crux of the route. Climb up into the underclings and up the left-angling seam above, 10+ protected by good pins. Continue up thirty feet until parallel with some pins leading straight left. Traverse straight left past three pins (9) to a belay at the base of a left-facing dihedral.
Pitch two is a short one, continue up the dihedral for fifty feet (6) to a belay ledge.
Pitch three has two options. We traversed left into the 11a/b third pitch of Doub-Griffith. I recommend this as the climbing is great on this variation and is pretty well protected with two bolts and a decent pin. For this variation, traverse down and left on runout 5.6 from the belay. Head up for and obvious bolt and continue up a sort of arete with an delicate 11 section after the pin. Continue up on 5.7 climbing to a small belay ledge at the base of the beautiful 70 degree slab.
The normal way to do this pitch is to traverse in from the left, above the bolts on nebulous terrain to join the second half of the pitch I just described (8+).
The fourth pitch is the best on the route, and is the route's technical and psychological crux. This pitch checks in at about 10c with delicate balancy laybacks and precise footwork. Climb up to the obvious bolt fifteen feet above the belay. The crux is the twenty-foot section above this bolt. Head for a shallow left-facing dihedral with a pin scar. Make a scary blind placement (small TCU, or stopper) hope that it is good (you can indeed get a good placement here, if you spend too much time trying to place this piece and fall, you will probably hit the belay ledge, not a good prospect) and climb right of the dihedral for ten more scary feet to reach a good hold. (If the TCU blows on a fall from this section, injury is almost definite, however as I said you can if you are patient get a good piece in here that will hold a fall from the crux moves above, it is a hard piece to place though). Continue up on slightly scary 5.9 that traverses left under an overhang and surmount this on good holds on the left (9), do some 5.8 out right to reach the upper ramp. This pitch is about 10c overall and instead of requiring pure strength, requires a good sense of body position and good footwork.