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Routes in Redgarden - Tower One

Alice in Bucketland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Apple Strudel T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Art Of Slappiness, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Art's Spar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Better Layton Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blueberry Boodle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Body Tremors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chockstone Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Consummation Nite T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Daedalus T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deadpoint T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Deed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doub-Griffith T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
E.L.100 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electric Aunt Jemima T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exhibit A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R
Exit Stage Left T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flashdance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fresh Garbage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Grand Giraffe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Icarus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ignition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Italian Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
King Cobra, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Magic Bus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Magic Route T C2+
Mellow Fellow T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mellow Yellow T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Memory Lapse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mickey Mouse Nailup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Much Slater (left variation) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Neptune's Bible T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neurosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
One and a Half Hours of Power T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Over the Shoulder Stuff T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Parting Shot T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pigeon Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Psycho Pigeon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psychosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Reaper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rocky Raccoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roll Over Rover T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Rover T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ruper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Arm Inspection. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Smoke & Mirrors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Song of the Dodo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
South Face of Tower One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Superspar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
To RP Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Untouchables, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Vertigo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Arete (of T1), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Without A Net T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Fellow T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ytrid Deed, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Webster and Browning, 1987
Page Views: 3,393 total, 17/month
Shared By: slevin on Nov 2, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
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Description

Psycho Pigeon is an ignored semi-classic deserving at least one other ascent this year. The climbing is somewhat wandering, the rock mostly good (even if a tad lichenous), and the moves satisfying. My only concern is that the cruxes rely on 15-year old button head bolts. These should be replaced with modern hardware - should a bolt pull, you could get mangled. You get nice views of Yellow Spur from this climb, but be forewarned that since the routes overlap on the pin ladder pitch of Yellow Spur, it may be best to avoid rush hour. I have neglected to describe the original pitches leading to the Upper Ramp as these have been superceded by Three Old Farts Young At Heart, and there are many other ways to access the upper, more independent pitches.

Climb either Doub-Griffith, Three Old Farts Young at Heart, Psychosis, or Vertigo, or somehow get yourself to the extreme upper reaches of the Upper Ramp, immediately below Mellow Yellow.

P1 (5.9 with 5.8s): either start in the Mellow-Yellow crack-slot, and climb 40 feet, then move left to the arete at 2 bolts, or climb a lichenous wall through an overhang just left of this, up a slab to the same point.

P2 (5.11a with 5.9s): climb the arete above past a bolt, then traverse right on steeper rock to the larger arete. Clip a bolt, do a hard stand-up move to a jug, then swing around the corner on the right and climb the slab past three more bolts. The crux stuff on Mellow Yellow is to your right. Where the climbing eases, move up and slightly right to a crack which leads to the exposed belay below the crux pin ladder on Yellow Spur.

P3 (5.10d): climb about 25 feet of the pin ladder pitch, then move up and left at an obvious left-angling crack which crosses the bright lichenous wall. The gear is a little stubborn at the start, but where the moves get harder there are two bolts. At the top of the difficulties, join the end of the Robbins Traverse, then punch it to the top via the Yellow Spur arete, or the original line - a slightly contrived slab to the left with a bolt (5.8).

Descend via trickery to the rap above Chockstone Chimney (see my comments under Swanson Arete), rap the Dirty Deed, or head down the East Slabs. The first descent option is the most viable, certainly if you started from the Vertigo Ledge and left your packs there.

Protection

Eldo rack.
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.11a
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.11a
The crux pitch on this thing is easily one of my favorites in the canyon. Webster always knew how to find a line. So good! May 14, 2015
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.11a PG13
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
  5.11a PG13
The crux pitch on this thing is easily 4 stars! Amazing position, super solid rock, and great moves. If you link this from Super Slab or The D-G and then finish on the original finish of the Yellow Spur, it makes for a 5 star climb of consistent 5.10-5.11!

The 1st pitch off of the Upper Ramp is very lichenous and has some loose stuff, but it's worth it to get to the goods. Apr 4, 2015
I was delighted to discover that the belay at the end of the first pitch above the upper ramp (pitch 1 or 4 depending on where you start counting) has modern bolts. The fixed hardware database doesn't seem to have this info, and I don't know when this was rebolted, but there weren't any 1/4" bolts or buttonheads as described above by others.

The position of this route is fantastic! Really airy! Nov 10, 2014
Rob DeZonia  
 
There are two independent pitches that lead to the Upper Ramp. The first hits an awsome splitter crack the leads just below Psychosis 11a roof. The second moves right and up a steep face visible from the Upper Ramp rappel. The Rossiter guide says these are three pitches that more or less follow Three Old Farts. They really add to the route, and the 5.10 crack on P1 is awesome. Sep 6, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
Once I fell 30 feet off of the third pitch of this due to the stopper in the diagonal slash pulling while getting lost on the Yellow Spur....

Can I tick it? Mar 29, 2010
Mike Munger
Boulder, Colorado
Mike Munger   Boulder, Colorado
I agree with Josh. You can place a small TCU to back up the bolts at the anchor at the top of the first pitch, and it is possible to place an RP before the first bolt on the second pitch. So, you are not totally run out, but it would be nice if that 1/4" button head was replaced as it is essentially the only thing you have when you start the traverse to the arete, and it would be a bad fall if it broke. May 20, 2007
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
5.11a
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
5.11a
Great rock and position. An overlooked classic. Mar 8, 2007
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
Greg Miller dragged a willing (it was my idea) but way out of shape me up Psycho Pigeon yesterday. My mind was willing, but my body wasn't. We approached via Psychosis, P1 of which was mixed snow and rock, and P3 of which was desperately-cold jamming. We started Psycho Pigeon via the left-facing corner depicted in the photo of Mellow Fellow. The move off the ground felt like 10+, but otherwise it was 9 with 9s at the end moving left then up to the belay. Rossiter describes starting further left, which looked very unappealing. You could also climb the flake just right of the corner. I was unhappy belaying the runout to the first bolt. Greg didn't get the nut in mentioned by someone above. Greg lunged at the crux stand up, disappeared around the corner, and with some mumbling, finished the pitch clean. I totally lunged the crux, got the jug, and then barn-doored off. I was very unhappy to move around the arete and discover it was not a slab, but rather very steep fingery face climbing. Flailed there. Near the top of the pitch, you can move left to the arete for a rest, but you'll want to move back right, and up and over the roof via fun easy move. P3 had decent gear. Greg got a good blue Alien in before the first bolt. The moves at the bolts were quite hard. I was expecting 10c, but Steve says 10d, and Rossiter says 11a. I was exhausted at this point and hung twice getting over the bulge. Feb 18, 2007
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.11a
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.11a
I got on this one with my friend Joe yesterday. We climbed Three Old Farts to reach the upper ramp. This is an excellent way to reach Psycho Pigeon. Like Steve says, Psycho Pigeon is a neglected semi-classic. I thought the climbing was good and requires good route finding skills. There wasn't any chalk up there to help you find the way. It's totally worth more accents that it obviously doesn't get. May 7, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a PG13
I think it's a little interesting that nobody is discussing the bottom of the climb. The first 3 pitches are not insignificant and if done by the best line are all 5.10.The first pitch may as well be done as Psychosis (the 5.10 mantle) because the 5.9 to the right is junkier. THe middle pitch, as 3 Old Farts Young At Heart is excellent and well protected overhead for most moves. The 3rd pitch is independant and climbs like 'Body Tremors' but harder and with a few bolts. It's significant enough to say that without doing that pitch, you have not done the route. Not so hard as it is a testiment to what was envisioned and done by the FA party, and to "Get it" regarding the nature of the climbing on this route. Nov 9, 2004
David A. Turner
  5.11a
David A. Turner  
  5.11a
In my opinion, the crux second pitch is about the same degree of difficulty as other classic Eldo face routes at this grade, eg. Wide Country. Well protected. Oct 14, 2004
What's interesting is that the guidebook describes the crux in a different place, on the arete after the traverse. Rossiter describes the trasverse as 5.10. Maybe something broke off? Aug 20, 2004
Joe Collins
  5.11a
Joe Collins  
  5.11a
What a nice surprise this route is! Its tempting to give it 3 stars, but its hard to grant classic status to something that avoids all the obvious climbing on the Yellow Spur.

The crux traverse move felt like easy-11 to me, but the move is very height dependent... and apparently kind of scary for the second. Its another one of those Eldo problems where you see a jug above a blank stretch, and you have to concoct some scheme to get to it. I think the comments on the seriousness of the 3rd pitch are overstated... there is a nice stopper placement in the diagonal slash, and then moderate climbing to clip the bolt. The original 4th pitch looked like a contrived joke (5.8, one bolt eight feet left of arete), so we stuck to the Yellow Spur arete to the top. Jul 20, 2004
Shane DeMars
Boulder, CO
 
Shane DeMars   Boulder, CO
 
To add to Josh's comment, there is also a 20ft section on the 3rd pitch (above the fixed pin and on the way to the 2 bolts) in which it is difficult to find good gear. It's easy at the pin and about .10- just before the bolts. Overall I'd say the route deserves more ascents than it seems to get. Jun 28, 2004
Josh Janes    
 
The four bolts protecting the crux section on the second pitch have been replaced and it feels ultra-safe. However, there are other spicy sections: For example, the belay at the beginning of this pitch is a button head and a 1/4 inch, and there is a long section of climbing right off that is only protected by a 1/4 incher (it would suck to break this bolt and factor two on the belay). Jun 26, 2004
Steve Annecone
boulder
  5.11b
Steve Annecone   boulder
  5.11b
What an excellent and wild route! Well protected in the harder sections, but plenty of spicy runouts on easier terrain, great position and exposure! (most of the old bolts have been replaced!) I thought the crux on the second pitch was more like 5.11b, it seemed as hard as lots of Eldo 11b routes. And be prepared for 10a or b serious on the third pitch before getting to the first bolt... it's steep and sustained here and the lichen and occasional crumbly rock make falling on marginal gear a possibility if you're not paying attention. Routes like this remind me of how unique and awesome Eldorado really is! Mar 22, 2004
I did this route a couple of years ago (maybe 2000) and thought that the crux move was on the traverse close to the arete and it felt a lot harder than 11a to me. Maybe I missed something but my partner thought it was a lot harder than 11a too. Good route though. Feb 4, 2004
I did this route a couple of years ago and the crux felt like it was a lot harder than 11a. The crux felt like it was on the traverse out to the arete . I've done a lot of 11's in eldo and all I can recall from this route was a moment of desperation that I wasn't prepared for. Maybe I missed something, but my partner felt it was desperate for 11a too. Worth doing though. Feb 4, 2004