Type: Trad, 550 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown, but probably in the 1950s
Page Views: 2,867 total · 29/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Sep 8, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Grunt your way up the West Chimney to the "Red Ledge" described elsewhere. Traverse South (right) underneath T-1 and face climb pleasant but somewhat fractured rock, and then the arete, directly to the sharp summit of Tower One. It is two pitches with a 50 meter rope, but it could be done in 1 long pitch with a 70 meter rope.

Location

Hike up the West gully past the start for Yellow Spur and look for the prominent West Chimney. That is start of the climb.

Protection

Standard Eldorado rack including some small wired nuts and a few smaller cams. No anchor at top; use gear anchor.

Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
I am confused. I thought Dirty Deed went up the gully between T1 and Lumpe Tower (added later - above the Red Ledge).

Edit: apparently, I've been confused along with a bunch of others. The gully is apparently Dirty Deed Chimney. Thanks, Dave, for the clarification from Steve Levin's excellent guidebook. Sep 8, 2010
Rodger Raubach  
  5.6
Leo-I've climbed this route at least 7-8 times, and it had been pointed out to me by several other "well known" climbers at the time. The W. Chimney is the 1st lead of the Dirty Deed. Mar 12, 2011
Rodger Raubach  
  5.6
Leo-

The Dirty Deed leaves the West Chimney at the Red Ledge, and the climbing resumes about 30 feet to the right on the clean, steep face. There are plentiful holds and cracks to provide protection opportunities, and really great views. One of the most scenic routes in Eldorado. It then follows easy climbing to a ridge-spur, to climber's right facing rock, to the Yellow Spur summit. Mar 13, 2011
Rick Pratt
Denver
 
Rick Pratt   Denver
 
Just for the record this is what Rossiter says: Page 261 #33:

"Not recommended. Often used as a rappel route.... Traverse right along The Red Ledge to the bottom of the gully between Lumpe Tower and Tower One (the Dirty Deed Chimney). Follow this chimney to the top."

I may need to buy Levin's book. Jul 30, 2011
Scott McMahon
Boulder, CO
Scott McMahon   Boulder, CO
Summit rap anchors have the worst rope pull from friction I've ever seen. Expect difficult pulls the entire rope length. Jul 30, 2012
Hiro Protagonist
Colorado
 
Hiro Protagonist   Colorado
 
Fun climbing. Fun subtracted by the required chimney approach and loose (hence 'dirty'?) rock along the whole route. May 7, 2014
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.6
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.6
I thought this route was awesome! Seriously - good pro, decent rock, great climbing and chimney moves.... So good! I did the first pitch of Dirty Deed and then did a pitch in the chimney to the top. This avoids a junky looking first pitch in the chimney. Aug 23, 2014