Avg: 0 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 220 ft (67 m)|
|FA:||T. Bubb & J. Meir 6/13/04 (followed french free)|
|Page Views:||1,761 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Jun 12, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Climb Fresh Garbage to reach this black face & crack- this is 'Deadpoint.' Climb the fingercrack (crux, small cams) to a bad jam and then some sidepulls (bad feet) to get established above. This is somewhere between 5.10d and 5.12a, but I don't know where. Maybe I missed a sequence, but I am guessing 5.11, my partner declined to estimate a grade. Continue up the blunt arete/rib of rock until near the top of the cliff, then step hard right to belay at a tree.
The moves required to free this are difficult and off of thin fingerlocks with bad feet. Please contact me if you repeat this route.