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Routes in Redgarden - Tower One

Alice in Bucketland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Apple Strudel T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Art Of Slappiness, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Art's Spar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Better Layton Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blueberry Boodle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Body Tremors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chockstone Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Consummation Nite T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Daedalus T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deadpoint T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Deed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doub-Griffith T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
E.L.100 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electric Aunt Jemima T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exhibit A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R
Exit Stage Left T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flashdance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fresh Garbage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Grand Giraffe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Icarus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ignition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Italian Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
King Cobra, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Magic Bus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Magic Route T C2+
Mellow Fellow T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mellow Yellow T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Memory Lapse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mickey Mouse Nailup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Much Slater (left variation) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Neptune's Bible T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neurosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
One and a Half Hours of Power T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Over the Shoulder Stuff T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Parting Shot T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pigeon Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Psycho Pigeon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psychosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Reaper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rocky Raccoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roll Over Rover T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Rover T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ruper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Arm Inspection. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Smoke & Mirrors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Song of the Dodo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
South Face of Tower One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Superspar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
To RP Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Untouchables, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Vertigo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Arete (of T1), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Without A Net T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Fellow T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ytrid Deed, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Pat Ament & pals, 1965
Page Views: 3,778 total, 19/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is one of the several moderates that scale the West face of Tower One on Redgarden Wall.

The route I will describe varies slightly from that in Rossiter's book, in order to stay out of the messy chimney at the bottom. This does not significantly change the overall grade of the route, but will make the first section of 5.6 climbing less protected.

From the Red Ledge, which can be reached by climbing one of many Redgarden routes such as Swanson Arete (for an easy approach), or the West Chimney (not recommended), or the first 3 pitches of Yellow Spur, or... In fact, you can traverse from almost anywhere on the Red Ledge, including from the routes Great Zot, Grandmother's Challenge, or Green Spur- if you are willing to traverse a little way.

Once on the ledge, traverse south toward the fantastic dihedral and arete of Tower One, toward the visible top pitch of the Yellow Spur. As you pass the great dihedral (bearing the appropriately named route "The Dirty Deed", start looking upward. While the original route went up the chimney a bit before traversing out right to a crack system (20-30' right of the dihedral) it is possible to go directly up from the ground, which may make the start more like 5.6 than 5.4. This is approximately 1/2 way between Daedalus and the Dirty Deed Dihedral (chimney).

Go straight up this crack system until it ends and then beyond to a medium pine tree on a small ledge, about 90' up. A larger pine is up and left in the dihedral. Belay at the medium pine, or continue upward on Pitch 2.

Pitch two goes up and slightly right in another crack system to the left-hand edge of the ledge bearing the large pine tree, another 90' up, or so. Linking these probably requires a 60m rope. (I used a 70m and had plenty left.) Belay in the crack above the ledge at its left edge, or at the base of the large pine as for Daedalus.

If you have not linked pitches 1 and 2, linking pitches 2 and 3 is an option. Again, linking these might require a 60m rope.

Pitch 3. Climb the obvious hand and finger crack from the left side of this ledge to the top of the cliff. There are good jams on easy terrain here as well as some face climbing. Belay from above and then descend as for the Yellow Spur.

This route is nice climbing with nice views, and is reasonably safe, but requires some distance between pieces. Mental constitution is more important on this route than hard-core ability, so I don't recommend it as a first lead. It is, however, a great "Date Climb" (snicker).

Protection

A light rack from stoppers to fist-sized.

Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
No one to date appears to have submitted a description for Dirty Deed. Indeed, Ytrid Deed is in the same area, but it is a different route. Consider submitting a description if you've done it. Sep 15, 2009
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
Not the same route. Ytrid=dirty backward. Reference paragraph 4 of the route description. Sep 15, 2009
Brian Hansen
West of Boulder, CO
Brian Hansen   West of Boulder, CO
Larry has a good point; when did this go from "Dirty Deed" to "Ytrid Deed" and why? Sep 15, 2009
Wondering why I couldn't locate this route in these pages, I finally found it with the current improbable spelling. It reminds me of my days as a telecom tech where one of the favorite quotes was 'spelling don't count.' Apparently, grammar doesn't either, but please.... Sep 15, 2009
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
 
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
 
Did this route 11/27/08. Really fun climb and classic. I didn't think there was any loose rock to speak of. We did it as in Rossiter's book and it was great. The first pitch was 5.7, 2nd felt like 5.6 and the third was 5.5. Decent through East Slabs.

Since it's not described here, I'll describe the first pitch.

From the Dirty Deed alcove, climb the short 45 degree ramp left to gain the arete. Then climb just right of the arete to the Red Ledge belaying at one of several trees on this ledge. This felt like 5.7 to my partner and I. Nov 28, 2008
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
Did this today...and I'd highly recommend it. I don't remember any loose rock to speak of, certainly no more than the average Eldo route. Route-finding was easy--a very direct line with mostly continuous cracks, pro seemed good, and the position was quite nice. It's also quite a bit more mellow than its neighbor Icarus, despite having the same rating. If you are in the area to climb one of the more popular routes, and find your chosen line festooned with parties, definitely consider this a worthy alternative. May 28, 2003
Fun climb. Most of this route feels about 5.5, but with the abundance of loose rock (check those holds!), unique exposure, and somewhat dirty holds (or is that Ytrid?), it feels 5.6. there is a multitude of ways to do any number of the climbs on this fine face, as Tony describes--just go up and link something together. There are some sections of truly wonderful climbing, but with some downright crappy sections, too.

If this area were to clean up a bit, it would be a moderate mecca--oops, it already is; it was a zoo this past Sunday!

More on that note: my partner and I were the first ones to this area on Sunday; and started up the Great Zot to access the Red Ledge. There was a party of three behind us that were doing Rewritten, and the leader started just after me, knowing full-well that these two climbs intersect and finish in the same crack. Well, as I was setting up for the crux, the lady was a mere four feet to my left, asking where she should traverse over to gain the crack. I was barely able to get my feet above the pod before she was hot on my heels! Then, of course, my partner had to endure the same situation when the two followers were jones'n to get themselves all tangled up in our rope! Anyone else feel that this is a little bunk? Oct 21, 2002