Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (3)
FA: Rob Candelaria
Page Views: 1,204 total · 6/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Apr 28, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

On the pillar between the big dihedral second pitch of Rover and the OW second pitch of Ruper, locate 3 bolts on the left side of the face right of the arete. This route was originally rated 12a/b, the newest guidebook notes 11d, but for some reason it's not that hard. It has good position and fun moves, but poorly placed bolts is how I would describe this rig. I thought the crux was clipping the last bolt (if you are well under 6' then even more so). Regardless, this is a great link-up into the Rover crux pitch above.

Protection

Small/medium wires, small/medium cams, and 3 QDs.

Photos

See "Roving for Love" for more ideas. May 3, 2002
A good pitch. Of the three bolts, the only easily clippable one is the first. The second bolt is about four feet away from a perfect stance, but once clipped you'll have overhead pro for most of what I thought was the crux. The third bolt is clipped mid-move making the last hard section a little harder than necessary. It would be nice to have the bolts placed more logically (and to have modern bolts). Also, a med/lg stopper will safely get you to the first bolt. It was definitely way overrated at .12a and .11d. It seems like .11b/c even with the bolts being hard to clip. May 8, 2002
Joe Collins
5.11c
Joe Collins  
5.11c
11b/c climbing, but making the 3rd clip feels like 11+. Jul 15, 2004
Scott Bennett
Michigan
5.11c
Scott Bennett   Michigan
5.11c
I really enjoyed this route, it was nice to find a fun, well-protected, hard route in a cool position.
As for the bolt positioning, clipping the second and third was difficult, but both had good stances right below them and I found it easy to downclimb back to the stances after clipping for quick rests. Overall, I didn't think the bolt positions made the route any harder.

The second and third bolt looked like they've been recently replaced (thanks!), and the first, although old, still looks a lot better than some of the museum pieces in Eldo. Jan 19, 2009
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11b/c PG13
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11b/c PG13
Great pitch and one of my new favorites in Eldo. With some new hardware and a lower 2nd and 3rd clip, this route would be a lot more friendly. Getting to the first bolt felt PG-13 to me. May 13, 2015
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
My husband, Dave, and I replaced the 3 lead bolts with 1/2" stainless steel Power bolts supplied by the BCC. We were able to reuse all of the holes. Thanks BCC for supplying the hardware! Please consider donating:

BCC
Jan 12, 2016