Type: Trad, 170 ft Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: B. Culp & C. DeWoodie, 1969
Page Views: 4,026 total · 18/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


63 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is too short to get a **** rating on it's own, but it is a great finish to any route you climbed to get here, and a beautiful and unique pitch. Since I assume you've done something *** to get here, this great pitch will give you a **** day.

On the upper part of the upper ramp on Redgarden, just above the finish to Lower Grand Giraffe and Art's Spar, there is a saddle between Tower 1 and Tower 2. Ruper, Serpent, Alice In Bucketland, and Upper Grand Giraffe finish in this saddle. To the left of all of these, at the left hand end of the wall lies a huge chimney with some huge chockstones in it. This is Chockstone Chimney. Just left of Chockstone Chimney is Body Tremors.

Body Tremors ascends the pocketed face with intermittent cracks just left of the Chockstone Chimney route, starting at more or less the same moves, but rising up and slightly to the right at first. The entire face is well pocketed, so wander about to find gear or the best holds or rests. There is no "off route," you are not in a gym. This route has good gear, but putting in a belay would be problematic and uncomforatable, so you should do this climb in a single LONG pitch, maybe 150'. To descend there are options: 1) Walk to the East to the top of Chockstone Chimney and rap to the Upper Ramp again. 2) Walk east to the saddle and descend via the East Slabs. 3) Pick your way up Northwest to the walk off a the NW corner of Redgarden Wall.

Protection

The route is rated S in the books, but is pretty safe, overall, for a person solid at this grade. Unlike many Eldorado run-outs, this one has mostly large, positive holds and good rests.

The route can be lead on a standard Eldo Rack, and no small gear is required. If you don't like the runouts, take several sets of cams, particularly larger ones to place in the huecos and pockets on the way up. These are good enough to hold in many cases. An occasional crack also takes stoppers. Take plenty of longer slings, as the route will have you wandering around a bit.

Photos