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Routes in Redgarden - Tower One

Alice in Bucketland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Apple Strudel T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Art Of Slappiness, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Art's Spar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Better Layton Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blueberry Boodle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Body Tremors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chockstone Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Consummation Nite T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Daedalus T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deadpoint T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Deed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doub-Griffith T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
E.L.100 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electric Aunt Jemima T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exhibit A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R
Exit Stage Left T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flashdance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fresh Garbage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Grand Giraffe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Icarus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ignition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Italian Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
King Cobra, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Magic Bus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Magic Route T C2+
Mellow Fellow T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mellow Yellow T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Memory Lapse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mickey Mouse Nailup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Much Slater (left variation) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Neptune's Bible T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neurosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
One and a Half Hours of Power T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Over the Shoulder Stuff T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Parting Shot T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pigeon Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Psycho Pigeon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psychosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Reaper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rocky Raccoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roll Over Rover T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Rover T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ruper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Arm Inspection. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Smoke & Mirrors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Song of the Dodo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
South Face of Tower One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Superspar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
To RP Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Untouchables, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Vertigo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Arete (of T1), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Without A Net T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Fellow T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ytrid Deed, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Grade III
FA: Suggested by Chace and R. Briggs
Page Views: 3,727 total, 19/month
Shared By: slevin on May 16, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is another linkup for the uninhibited. Mellow Fellow combines the exciting, strenuous Vertigo Die-rect roof, the classic Vertigo, and the complete Mellow Yellow to produce a stiff bit of Eldorado mayhem.

Begin on the West Redgarden trail, a bit beyond the popular Mr. Natural.

P1: Climb a clean, sparsely protected offset dihedral (5.9) to a belay just below the huge roof (2-bolt anchor).
P2: Tackle the roof (crux of Vertigo Die-rect, 5.11d) after arranging the requisite assortment of gear - a bit of a pump getting this all in. Proceed to the Vertigo ledge.
P3: Combine P1 & P2 of Vertigo, fun, well-protected 5.9 corners. Belay at a spectacular ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
P4: Combine P3 & P4 of Vertigo, the crux, overhanging dihedral (5.11b) and the roof finish. Doing the dihedral and roof together creates one of the finest 5.11 leads in the canyon.
From the summit, work north to the upper, upper reaches of the Upper Ramp, to a point 90 feet below an imposing, A-framed roof (Mellow Yellow).
P5: Climb corners up and right under the roof (licheny, 5.9 or so), tackle the roof crux, then up and slightly right to a stance with slings.
P6: Proceed up a corner with less-than-inspiring gear, and either climb it directly (5.11c), or find some buckets on the right edge to shoot for (a little spooky but easier, maybe 5.11b). Now punch straight up the headwall and belay.
P7: Climb the steep, blank face above clipping a few bolts on the way. This is the crux of the linkup, a very sharp, technical bit of 5.12a (or harder). Continue up the nebulous upper reaches of the wall.

Now do a lap on the Naked Edge to warm down.

Protection

The usual little gadgets and stuff, including RPs, TCUs or Aliens, nuts, and cams to 3". The rock is generally sound, although a couple sections (in particular the Vertigo Die-rect roof) climb through broken, maroon bands and are somewhat fractured. Expect to climb up to 5.9 or low-end 5.10 a bit above your gear, with bad fall potential. The cruxes protect well, although placing gear can be strenuous. The technical crux (the Mellow Yellow headwall) is protected by a couple of (widely spaced) bolts...mid-'80s vintage.

Photos

WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
Second pin on second pitch is no longer there. It got pulled during a fall this morning. A decent RP can be placed near where it pulled, but be aware.

Great route! Jul 28, 2016
My favorite Eldo Link Up:

First pitch of the Wisdom, 10d, to Scary Canary crux, 12b, to linking Le Toit, 10b - Plastic Jesus, 11-, up the ramp to the Mellow Fellow linking the 5.11d with the 11c, finish with the 5.12 boulder problem finish!

Not to be missed!

Sidebar: I took Honnold up here: he linked the entire Mellow Fellow into the Direct in a single 80 meter pitch, and he didn't seem to break a sweat, seriously amazing to watch. Sep 15, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a
The swing off of the pin isn't that bad. I've taken a few bombers on it! The belay above the roof still sucks a little though. I replaced most of it last fall, but it really leaves something to consider before you want to lead fall from the 11c pitch onto it. May 27, 2005
Dr. Dan
Steamboat Springs, CO
  5.11d
Dr. Dan   Steamboat Springs, CO
  5.11d
Probably a little late, but there is a good fixed pin in the vertical seam going up to the roof that is bomber (would be a nasty swing if you came off above the roof). There is a fixed nut with a sling about 8 feet to the right after you get over the roof. There is fixed gear right below the second roof. Feb 27, 2004
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
Thanks for the info guys. I guess I have no excuse not to give it a try now...... Mar 17, 2003
Plus, if you use double ropes you can utilize an excellent nut placement (#5 I think) in the flake on the left wall before embarking. Mar 13, 2003
There is a fairly decent pin in the middle of the roof, which protects the crux getting to the lip(5.11d +). Have a 2.5 friend ready to fire into a bomber placement just above the lip, then be prepared for 10+ slab moves to the belay stance. Mar 12, 2003
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
Does anyone know what I might find for gear in the first Mellow Yellow roof? Is there gear in the roof itself, or do you have to gun it off gear at the top of the slab?Sincerely,Cowardly Fellow Mar 12, 2003
Dr. Dan
Steamboat Springs, CO
  5.11d
Dr. Dan   Steamboat Springs, CO
  5.11d
Another link up that is fun and not as hard as the Vertigo start is to do the direct start (10b) on the Yellow Spur. At the top of P4 go right up a lose ramp until you are under a large bulge. The bulge is solid and fun and looks harder than it is (9). Once over the bulge angle right up into the big roof on Mellow Yellow. Climb the roof using the crimp on the right facing wall and reach for a pincher hold out left. Once over the roof there are ample tiny crimp holds, but no pro. Move right about 8 ft to a some fixed gear and a sling. From there work up and slightly right again to a corner and climb an 11c slot on less than inspiring pro to exit. The rest of the climb is covered as above. Dec 3, 2002
Another great link-up is Suparete to Doub-Griffith to Mellow Yellow ("Hello Jello"?). David A. Turner Nov 28, 2001