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Trad, 5 pitches
|FA:||Layton Kor and George Hurley, 1960, FFA - John Thomas, ~1962-63|
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|Shared By:||George Bell on Aug 7, 2001 · Updates|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Find the start to the route by approaching the Roof Routes area. Park at the main lot east of the Bastille, cross the bridge in front of the Bastille. Follow the trail along the north side of the creek across the concrete pad, take the switchbacks and then a right fork. When you get to the rock, you head left, past the Roof Routes. Here, you will find a Flatiron-like slab requiring 4th class to low 5th class climbing for 200+ feet. Use a rope, if you might fall. Ascend this to the top of this slab. Keep in mind you will not be returning to this spot after the descent.
P2. This is an easy pitch (5.4) which follows a ramp and wide crack leftward to the base of the dreaded, right-facing corner of the Grand Giraffe (which breaches the roof left of Art's Spar).
P3. This is the crux, and the difficulties start immediately. The first moves are protected by an ancient piton. At the start, you can chimney the crack with your back against the left wall, but soon the footholds on the right disappear. If you are a weenie like me, place a big Camalot above you at this point, which gives you a toprope for the crux. Struggle up through the crux and place your other big piece.
Although the upper part of this crack looks intimidating, I found the crux to be the first 15'. Near the top you have to climb the main part of the overhang, but there is good pro and holds here. Belay at the Upper Ramp.
From here, the route continues above the Upper Ramp via two more fun pitches (5.7, but mildly runout). Cross the upper ramp to the upper end of a huge cave, 4th class (lower end is the start of upper Ruper and Alice in Bucketland). Downclimb the ramp towards the left corner of a large cave.
P4. Climb up alongside the shallow, right-facing corner, then make your way to towards a pink alcove with a single bolt.
P5. The final pitch angles up and left, crossing a roofline at its left edge then continues up and right to the saddle between T1 and T2.