Type: Trad, 290 ft (88 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: [Scott Woodruff & Dan Hare, 1976]
Page Views: 19,389 total · 68/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Feb 18, 2001 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This exciting route presents a definite crux at the roof on the second pitch but remains sustained the whole way. Both pitches are pretty spicy. Nearly all of the holds are huge, and the climbing is vertical or overhanging. Do any route that reaches the Upper Ramp to get to the base; the climb would make a fitting finale for Rosy Crucifixion. A huge cave/overhang sits near the upper part of the ramp, just left of the upper pitches of Ruper; above it is a pocketed wall and another prominent roof band. The route starts at the right side of the cave.

Pitch one: climb up an easy ramp to the right margin of the overhang, which at this point is a blind corner. Place protection overhead in the curving roof/dihedral, and feel around the corner for the proper place to get established on the face (scary 5.8). An astute runout back to the left will be necessary to prevent horrendous rope drag. Follow a crack/seam steadily up left, with reasonable protection, and belay down and left from the apex of the upper roof (variable number of pins). 

Pitch two: traverse up and right from the hanging belay, and turn the roof (the crux, small gear at your feet) right of its apex, where it begins to bend down to the right. Work up and slightly left over a steep wall into an obtuse left-facing corner which provides an exciting finale; belay above. A considerably more mellow fifty feet finds the top (shared with Ruper ). Go west to the rappel (described under Ruper, Yellow Spur, etc.) or east to the east slabs descent.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack, a #3 Camalot or the like could come in handy.

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