All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One

Alice in Bucketland

Name: Alice in Bucketland
Rating: 3.6

5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R

Routes in Redgarden - Tower One

L › R R › L A › Z

	Alice in Bucketland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Apple Strudel T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Art Of Slappiness, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Art's Spar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Better Layton Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Blueberry Boodle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Body Tremors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Chockstone Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Consummation Nite T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Daedalus T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Deadpoint T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Dirty Deed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Doub-Griffith T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	E.L.100 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Electric Aunt Jemima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Exhibit A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R
	Exit Stage Left T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Flashdance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Fresh Garbage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Grand Giraffe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Icarus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Ignition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Italian Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	King Cobra, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Magic Bus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Magic Route T C2+
	Mellow Fellow T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Mellow Yellow T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Memory Lapse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Mickey Mouse Nailup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Much Slater (left variation) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
	Neptune's Bible T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Neurosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	One and a Half Hours of Power T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Over the Shoulder Stuff T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Parting Shot T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Pigeon Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Psycho Pigeon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Psychosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Reaper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Rocky Raccoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Roll Over Rover T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Rover T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Ruper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Short Arm Inspection. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Smoke & Mirrors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Song of the Dodo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	South Face of Tower One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Super Slab T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Superspar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
	Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	To RP Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
	Untouchables, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Vertigo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	West Arete (of T1), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
	Without A Net T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Yellow Fellow T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
	Yellow Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Ytrid Deed, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

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Type:	Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA:	[Scott Woodruff & Dan Hare, 1976]
Page Views:	15,593 total · 69/month
Shared By:	Charles Vernon on Feb 18, 2001
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

This exciting route presents a definite crux at the roof on the second pitch, but remains sustained the whole way. Both pitches are pretty spicey. Nearly all of the holds are huge, and the climbing is vertical or overhanging. Do any route that reaches the Upper Ramp to get to the base; the climb would make a fitting finale for Rosy Crucifixion. A huge cave/overhang sits near the upper part of the ramp, just left of the upper pitches of Ruper; above it is a pocketed wall and another prominent roof band. The route starts at the right side of the cave.

Pitch one: Climb up an easy ramp to the right margin of the overhang, which at this point is a blind corner. Place protection overhead in the curving roof/dihedral and feel around the corner for the proper place to get established on the face (scary 5.8). An astute runout back to the left will be necessary to prevent horrendous rope drag. Follow a crack/seam steadily up left, with reasonable protection, and belay down and left from the apex of the upper roof (variable number of pins). Don't be fooled (as I was) by the line of huge holds just above the cave; they lead to some very dangerous climbing if one is to stay on route.

Pitch two: Traverse up and right from the hanging belay, and turn the roof (crux, small gear at your feet) right of its apex, where it begins to bend down to the right. Work up and slightly left over a steep wall into an obtuse left-facing corner which provides an exciting finale; belay above. A considerably more mellow fifty feet finds the top (shared with Ruper). Go west to the rappel (described under Ruper, Yellow Spur, etc.) or east to the east slabs descent.