Avg: 3.6 from 187 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||[Scott Woodruff & Dan Hare, 1976]|
|Page Views:||17,144 total · 70/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Feb 18, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Pitch one: Climb up an easy ramp to the right margin of the overhang, which at this point is a blind corner. Place protection overhead in the curving roof/dihedral and feel around the corner for the proper place to get established on the face (scary 5.8). An astute runout back to the left will be necessary to prevent horrendous rope drag. Follow a crack/seam steadily up left, with reasonable protection, and belay down and left from the apex of the upper roof (variable number of pins). Don't be fooled (as I was) by the line of huge holds just above the cave; they lead to some very dangerous climbing if one is to stay on route.
Pitch two: Traverse up and right from the hanging belay, and turn the roof (crux, small gear at your feet) right of its apex, where it begins to bend down to the right. Work up and slightly left over a steep wall into an obtuse left-facing corner which provides an exciting finale; belay above. A considerably more mellow fifty feet finds the top (shared with Ruper). Go west to the rappel (described under Ruper, Yellow Spur, etc.) or east to the east slabs descent.