Alice in Bucketland
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | [Scott Woodruff & Dan Hare, 1976] |
Page Views: | 14,369 total · 69/month |
Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Feb 18, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyonÂ’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
2018 Rattlesnake Gulch area closures, effective immediately. The closures are to protect nesting golden eagles in the park.
cpw.state.co.us/aboutus/Pag…
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
cpw.state.co.us/aboutus/Pag…
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This exciting route presents a definite crux at the roof on the second pitch, but remains sustained the whole way. Both pitches are pretty spicey. Nearly all of the holds are huge, and the climbing is vertical or overhanging. Do any route that reaches the Upper Ramp to get to the base; the climb would make a fitting finale for Rosy Crucifixion. A huge cave/overhang sits near the upper part of the ramp, just left of the upper pitches of Ruper; above it is a pocketed wall and another prominent roof band. The route starts at the right side of the cave.
Pitch one: Climb up an easy ramp to the right margin of the overhang, which at this point is a blind corner. Place protection overhead in the curving roof/dihedral and feel around the corner for the proper place to get established on the face (scary 5.8). An astute runout back to the left will be necessary to prevent horrendous rope drag. Follow a crack/seam steadily up left, with reasonable protection, and belay down and left from the apex of the upper roof (variable number of pins). Don't be fooled (as I was) by the line of huge holds just above the cave; they lead to some very dangerous climbing if one is to stay on route.
Pitch two: Traverse up and right from the hanging belay, and turn the roof (crux, small gear at your feet) right of its apex, where it begins to bend down to the right. Work up and slightly left over a steep wall into an obtuse left-facing corner which provides an exciting finale; belay above. A considerably more mellow fifty feet finds the top (shared with Ruper). Go west to the rappel (described under Ruper, Yellow Spur, etc.) or east to the east slabs descent.
Pitch one: Climb up an easy ramp to the right margin of the overhang, which at this point is a blind corner. Place protection overhead in the curving roof/dihedral and feel around the corner for the proper place to get established on the face (scary 5.8). An astute runout back to the left will be necessary to prevent horrendous rope drag. Follow a crack/seam steadily up left, with reasonable protection, and belay down and left from the apex of the upper roof (variable number of pins). Don't be fooled (as I was) by the line of huge holds just above the cave; they lead to some very dangerous climbing if one is to stay on route.
Pitch two: Traverse up and right from the hanging belay, and turn the roof (crux, small gear at your feet) right of its apex, where it begins to bend down to the right. Work up and slightly left over a steep wall into an obtuse left-facing corner which provides an exciting finale; belay above. A considerably more mellow fifty feet finds the top (shared with Ruper). Go west to the rappel (described under Ruper, Yellow Spur, etc.) or east to the east slabs descent.
Estes Park, CO
Around Boulder, CO
2 sets of 1.5" to 3.5" cams would help in the first pitch.
I agree that a 5.8 leader should not be on it, but if you feel good on 5.8 and are mentally solid, I don't think 5.10 ability is prerequisite. Jan 14, 2002
Denver, CO
Lakewood, CO
Denver, CO
Perhaps the Cinque Torre also has a Cima Grande... Apr 1, 2002
Denver, CO
Fort Collins, CO
I followed the second pitch and, looking for an easier way, swung right around the roof onto a sloping ledge (similar to the pitch 1 move). Don't do this! It's hard, and there are no good handholds after you swing right. Then it's really hard moving left to get back on the normal line. Jan 12, 2003
Westminster, Colorado
Around Boulder, CO
Great route, one of the best at its grade in Eldo.
It is a little powerful here and there, and the only devious move is the second roof, which can be skipped to the left as mentioned if you feel marginal on this route "Tallus In Duck-It-Land" is the easiest variation.
The cord on the belay under the second roof (the first belay) is really terrible as of 4/20/03. I replaced the belay slings on 9/25/04, they are presently bomber, but on two old, yet decent pins. The old cord can now be cut, but was not because it was intertwined into my belay when I replaced it- not so simple to do at the time. Although I would not hesitate at present to rap off of the new set-up, it would still be advisable to back the thing up if you are belaying on it, due to the probable direction of force in the event of a fall from the crux. The old cord was expertly placed to be redundant due to the knot and should be closely replicated. Apr 21, 2003
Lyons, CO
As of the middle of October, there were still a ton of bees at the belay station under the second roof. Oct 16, 2003
Around Boulder, CO
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Colorado
Fort Collins CO
Apr 25, 2007
Fort Collins, CO
Note: The bees/wasps were in full effect as 10/7 at the 1st belay. Oct 7, 2007
Boulder, CO
Gear beta: there are two great yellow Alien placements just before the crux 2nd pitch roof. Nov 10, 2007
San Francisco
Boulder, CO
Here
Boulder
I think you've been climbing in the gym too much. This route is no more difficult that 5.8, even by today's standards. Maybe you are making the entry move from the roof onto the face above in a difficult place but grading this climb 5.9 is way off. Jun 14, 2008
Boulder
Interesting discussion on the best 5.8. Alice might be up there. Sounds like the makings of a fun thread. Via Mirriam (Standard Route) on the Cinque Cima Grande is pretty sweet, RW. Pingora, Pear Buttress, and Bonne Homme Variation might make my list too. Sep 4, 2008
Boulder, CO
Golden, CO
Golden, CO
Ah, what a great climb! Apr 16, 2011
Boulder, Colorado
leeds, ut
Also, I was able to get plenty of pro in p1 (some may have been more psychological than functional) with little drag, using slings judiciously. Nov 21, 2012
Boulder, CO
Also, if you are considering doing it in two pitches with a 60m, do not use the rope to equalize the pieces: you'll need all but 10-15 feet of it to get to the top. Jun 29, 2014
Santa Monica, Ca.
I remember doing Friday's Folly on the 3rd and telling my partner how much I liked that vertical jugfest, then I thought he took me to do Alice as the next step in vertical jugs. Sep 30, 2014
Longmont, Colorado
I ended up making a good anchor with a #0.75, #1, and a #0.4
There were wasps crawling into the flake directly in front of me when I made my anchor, but they didn't bother us.
Absolutely amazing route. You can sew it up after the first pitch roof, although the climbing gets way easier after that. Apr 14, 2017
Boulder, CO