Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Redgarden - Tower One

Alice in Bucketland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Apple Strudel T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Art Of Slappiness, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Art's Spar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Better Layton Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blueberry Boodle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Body Tremors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chockstone Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Consummation Nite T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Daedalus T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Deadpoint T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty Deed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doub-Griffith T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
E.L.100 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electric Aunt Jemima T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Exhibit A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R
Exit Stage Left T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flashdance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fresh Garbage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Grand Giraffe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Icarus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ignition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Italian Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
King Cobra, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Magic Bus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Magic Route T C2+
Mellow Fellow T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mellow Yellow T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Memory Lapse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mickey Mouse Nailup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Much Slater (left variation) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Neptune's Bible T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Neurosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
One and a Half Hours of Power T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Over the Shoulder Stuff T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Parting Shot T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pigeon Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Psycho Pigeon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Psychosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Reaper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rocky Raccoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roll Over Rover T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Rover T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ruper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Arm Inspection. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Smoke & Mirrors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Song of the Dodo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
South Face of Tower One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Superspar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
To RP Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Untouchables, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Vertigo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
West Arete (of T1), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Without A Net T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Fellow T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Yellow Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ytrid Deed, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: [Scott Woodruff & Dan Hare, 1976]
Page Views: 14,129 total, 69/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Feb 18, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


145 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This exciting route presents a definite crux at the roof on the second pitch, but remains sustained the whole way. Both pitches are pretty spicey. Nearly all of the holds are huge, and the climbing is vertical or overhanging. Do any route that reaches the Upper Ramp to get to the base; the climb would make a fitting finale for Rosy Crucifixion. A huge cave/overhang sits near the upper part of the ramp, just left of the upper pitches of Ruper; above it is a pocketed wall and another prominent roof band. The route starts at the right side of the cave.

Pitch one: Climb up an easy ramp to the right margin of the overhang, which at this point is a blind corner. Place protection overhead in the curving roof/dihedral and feel around the corner for the proper place to get established on the face (scary 5.8). An astute runout back to the left will be necessary to prevent horrendous rope drag. Follow a crack/seam steadily up left, with reasonable protection, and belay down and left from the apex of the upper roof (variable number of pins). Don't be fooled (as I was) by the line of huge holds just above the cave; they lead to some very dangerous climbing if one is to stay on route.

Pitch two: Traverse up and right from the hanging belay, and turn the roof (crux, small gear at your feet) right of its apex, where it begins to bend down to the right. Work up and slightly left over a steep wall into an obtuse left-facing corner which provides an exciting finale; belay above. A considerably more mellow fifty feet finds the top (shared with Ruper). Go west to the rappel (described under Ruper, Yellow Spur, etc.) or east to the east slabs descent.

Protection

Standard rack, a #3 Camalot or the like could come in handy.
Eliot Augusto
Boulder, CO
 
Eliot Augusto   Boulder, CO
 
10/14/17 - no pins at the first pitch belay, bomber gear anchor can be made. No wasps and bitchin' climbing.... Oct 14, 2017
I could have completely missed the belay, but I did not see any pins anywhere near the second roof for the first pitch belay.

I ended up making a good anchor with a #0.75, #1, and a #0.4

There were wasps crawling into the flake directly in front of me when I made my anchor, but they didn't bother us.

Absolutely amazing route. You can sew it up after the first pitch roof, although the climbing gets way easier after that. Apr 14, 2017
David Ponak
Longmont, Colorado
David Ponak   Longmont, Colorado
Wasps are still there, belay at the flake below the one in the beta photo about 10+ feet below, and they shouldn't bother you.... Apr 12, 2017
Mike dF
 
Mike dF  
 
There were quite a few wasps floating around the P1 belay as of today, November 15. Nov 15, 2016
G Sule  
Had to bail from P1 belay and left a little nest of slings and nuts. Msg me if you get them and are motivated to return them. Thanks. Jun 4, 2015
Moritz B.
  5.8+ R
Moritz B.  
  5.8+ R
I would recommend to skip the belay under the second roof and go all the way up to the first tree where you will find two old pitons and said small tree to build a belay with. This is doable with a 70m rope (rope stretcher). Before the second roof, you will find a good, blue Metolius placement. Extend it with a double shoulder length sling to avoid drag. You should also extend the protection before the first roof with a double should length sling. The route is brilliant! I really enjoyed it. Dec 20, 2014
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
FA in 1976...hmmmmm, I must have oldsheimer's. I could swear that I did it 2 or 3 yrs earlier, and that it was in the '72 High Over Boulder, must be thinking of something else.

I remember doing Friday's Folly on the 3rd and telling my partner how much I liked that vertical jugfest, then I thought he took me to do Alice as the next step in vertical jugs. Sep 30, 2014
D Sharp
Boulder, CO
 
D Sharp   Boulder, CO
 
Definitely no pins, or tat (per latest Levin book and what my partner remembered from a year ago) for the P1 hanging belay... you're gonna have to build your own. Awesome big nut out left, trucker 0.75 overhead, and a grey X4 to the right will get you a belay you could hang a submarine off of - you will have to, however, cast off without those pieces (and anything else you happened to throw in there).

Also, if you are considering doing it in two pitches with a 60m, do not use the rope to equalize the pieces: you'll need all but 10-15 feet of it to get to the top. Jun 29, 2014
JFM
 
JFM  
 
11-21-12: No hymenoptera nor pins at the belay, though I could have not been looking well enough.

Also, I was able to get plenty of pro in p1 (some may have been more psychological than functional) with little drag, using slings judiciously. Nov 21, 2012
fossana
leeds, ut
 
fossana   leeds, ut
 
Far better in exposure and rock quality than the upper pitches of Ruper. The upper ramp is full of ticks. Fortunately Ryan belayed P1 ;) Jun 13, 2012
James Hulett
Boulder, Colorado
  5.8+ R
James Hulett   Boulder, Colorado
  5.8+ R
Fun stuff. Both the roofs were super fun, almost swing moves on jugs. a fitting name for the climb. Didn't bring enough water for this hot afternoon climb and became super dehydrated, so I didn't enjoy it as much as I would have if I had more water. Great climb. Jun 17, 2011
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.8+ R
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.8+ R
Climbed today with D.S. An exceptional route! Update: 1 pin @ the P2 hanging belay and a full army of hornets. The hornets were high in numbers but very passive, and they left us alone.

Ah, what a great climb! Apr 16, 2011
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
Still only one pin at the sling belay. Pin is good; a big nut works well for hanging there, but gosh, I woulda sure liked to have had a 0.75 Camalot in the crack above for ultimate peace of mind. Great route! Oct 9, 2010
George Squibb
Boulder, CO
 
George Squibb   Boulder, CO
 
With a little bit of 4th classing (20ft or so), a 70m cord, and long slings you can do the whole thing in one long pitch.... Jan 19, 2009
Mic Fairchild
Boulder
Mic Fairchild   Boulder
I first did this route as a free-solo in 1986 and considered it default 5.8 (as there was no 5.9 on it). I did it again last week and have to stand by that assessment. While it's a bit scary at the second roof, my opinion of the technical difficulty stands. Tri-cams have worked well when I've led it, but still runout for the grade. Psych factor not withstanding, an excellent route.

Interesting discussion on the best 5.8. Alice might be up there. Sounds like the makings of a fun thread. Via Mirriam (Standard Route) on the Cinque Cima Grande is pretty sweet, RW. Pingora, Pear Buttress, and Bonne Homme Variation might make my list too. Sep 4, 2008
Buzz,

I think you've been climbing in the gym too much. This route is no more difficult that 5.8, even by today's standards. Maybe you are making the entry move from the roof onto the face above in a difficult place but grading this climb 5.9 is way off. Jun 14, 2008
Buzz Burrell
Boulder
Buzz Burrell   Boulder
If one had those two roofs dialed, 5.8+ might seem right, but onsite I'm willing to say those roofs are niners. The commitment factor of those moves, and the continuous steepness elsewhere, make this a remarkable route. Doubling up on 1" and 2" would really help on P1, and plenty of small stuff for P2. Jun 14, 2008
Greg D
Here
Greg D   Here
No bees as of 4/28/08. Only one pin at first belay. Other gear options definitely exist for the anchor. Good natural anchor is not a problem. Me and my partner (about 400lbs +) enjoyed a hanging belay off of the pin, a #0.5 Camalot (a #0.75 Camalot may work as well) and a finger size nut, each piece in a separate rock feature, nicely equalized. Excellent route! Apr 30, 2008
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
Still no wasps, just damn awesome climbing. Mar 24, 2008
Brian Adzima
San Francisco
Brian Adzima   San Francisco
As of 2/24/2008 there is only one pin at the belay. Feb 24, 2008
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
  5.8+ R
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
  5.8+ R
There are no wasps on the route as of today.

Gear beta: there are two great yellow Alien placements just before the crux 2nd pitch roof. Nov 10, 2007
FCJohn
Fort Collins, CO
 
FCJohn   Fort Collins, CO
 
Did this route with Danny I. as a Rosy linkup we're dubbing "Rosy Alice". Alice is the perfect 5.8 route for one who is a comfortable 5.10 leader in Eldo. The moves pulling the roofs on both pitches were blind and committing and there was fairly regular 20-30 ft run out sections. The route was easily done to the top of the saddle in two pitches with good runners.

Note: The bees/wasps were in full effect as 10/7 at the 1st belay. Oct 7, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.8+ R
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.8+ R
The wasps are back at the P1 belay. It was easy enough to redirect the hanging belay to the right with a couple small cams. They didn't seem aggressive.

Apr 25, 2007
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
Indeed, the 'S' rating is correct while pulling the roofs/corners on both pitches. Both roofs are committing, falling is not an option as a fall would be nasty. The grade felt right to me, just a bit scary. Apr 16, 2007
Excellent route. Agreed, stiff for the grade and the "s" rating is legit. Pro placement requires some creativity. There is good gear just below each crux, but a fall after each roof will send you for a whip. Dont let the rope get caught under the left leg. Backup the hanging belay with gear as described. T Nydam Sep 12, 2005
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Quite an excellent route! Even better than Ruper. The two pin belay can be easily supplemented with gear in a much better crack just above and to the right. The pins are driven behind a block that is funky looking, in that it has fissures and cracks all the way through it. Definitely use gear in the crack, too. While you are here, you can pose the question to your partner, "Suck it or bucket?" Jun 19, 2005
This climb is not to be missed! Steep rock, dramatic setting, esthetic climbing and exciting cruxes. From the first belay, it's one long 60 meter pitch to the top, using all but about ten feet of the rope. Jun 7, 2005
Second time on this baby, and folks it doesn't get much better, steep, juggy and nothing but fun.A little bit of a hair raiser pulling the roof, but it all goes and wow, have fun....... Sep 26, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8+ R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8+ R
OK, but as of June 26, the pins were OK. I'd suspect that the left pin loose was caused by a crux fall- which would pull the left pin out torqued to the right. Someone musta hammered it back in. Nonetheless, maybe I'll put a nice long angle in up & to the right of the existing two to make it bomber next time I am up there. Is there a community consensus on that? Seems like a reasonable thing, to replace an old placement if people feel that the historical belay is poor. Then again, you can back it up on gear, so people nervous can also just leave a stopper and sling too. Jun 28, 2004
This is in response to tonys comment above. Last I checked (5/ 04) both pins in this anchor were pretty shady and the left one could be removed by hand. I would have taken it, but it was tied into the anchor with a tattered old cord and I didnt have my knife. The best belay is above the second roof on a ledge over a short obtuse dihederal. Great route, have fun. Jun 28, 2004
What a route! Both roof sequences rock.

As of the middle of October, there were still a ton of bees at the belay station under the second roof. Oct 16, 2003
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
Dale - The East Slabs descent is not a walk-off. It's a long down-climb. Many would argue that it's not safer than rapping. I've done it both ways and prefer to use the Chockstone Chimney and Vertigo raps. I know of at least one person to die on the east slabs descent after getting caught in the rain. Sep 17, 2003
Just a quick comment about the descent beta givin above. You are practicaly at the top of the east slab descent. Just walk off!! If is much safer then all the rapping!! Sep 17, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8+ R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8+ R
The [variatio Ivan mentions above is called Phallus in Suck-It-Land and is a Rossiter climb. Furthermore, you can duck out left and diagonal up and left at a angle 35 degrees from straight up (in a line contiguous with pitch 1) and arrive at the single bolt belay of Upper Grand Giraffe. I did this in 1996 (Bubb/Thompson or Bubb/Peters) and again yesterday. I called this Talus in Duck-It-Land at the time due to a large rock that popped off. It is mostly easy climbing as well and from either left-hand variation of 'Alice' you can reach to top of the wall in about 60m even.

Great route, one of the best at its grade in Eldo.

It is a little powerful here and there, and the only devious move is the second roof, which can be skipped to the left as mentioned if you feel marginal on this route "Tallus In Duck-It-Land" is the easiest variation.

The cord on the belay under the second roof (the first belay) is really terrible as of 4/20/03. I replaced the belay slings on 9/25/04, they are presently bomber, but on two old, yet decent pins. The old cord can now be cut, but was not because it was intertwined into my belay when I replaced it- not so simple to do at the time. Although I would not hesitate at present to rap off of the new set-up, it would still be advisable to back the thing up if you are belaying on it, due to the probable direction of force in the event of a fall from the crux. The old cord was expertly placed to be redundant due to the knot and should be closely replicated. Apr 21, 2003
XOG
XOG  
There's an easier variation to the second pitch. Instead of going right and pulling the 5.8+ roof with tricky protection, you can go left from the hanging belay and wander up mostly 5.7 terrain with reasonable protection (a bit run-out but regularly spaced pro) and solid lichen-covered rock. I've done it both ways and actually find the left variation just as enjoyable because of the route-finding and the consistent difficulty. Apr 10, 2003
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
P1. There is a little edge/flake on the lip of the roof that can catch & provide ample rope drag. Look down & check the rope after you clear the roof. Also, a #3 Camalot piece is near-essential just after clearing the roof to avoid ground fall potential. There are two pins at the belay anchor. P2 has 2 pins in the L-facing dihedral near its top. You can belay at the 1st of the pins. Descent: Just L by perhaps 100 feet or so is the rap down Chockstone Chimney (1x30m). This leaves you at the top of the descent line L of Vertigo or at the top of the ramp you can descend to the Naked Edge raps (3x25m). Apr 3, 2003
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
You don't have to run it out above the first roof to avoid rope drag. I used a double length sling before swinging right around the first roof. Getting situated after the roof is a little scary, but you can place a good #3/blue Camalot at the "rail". You can clip this short, and the rope will run fine, assuming you didn't place gear until you got to the roof. This was the first time I've done the route, and I had a hard time staying calm. There's enough gear, maybe every 10 feet or so, but much of it is not inspiring.

I followed the second pitch and, looking for an easier way, swung right around the roof onto a sloping ledge (similar to the pitch 1 move). Don't do this! It's hard, and there are no good handholds after you swing right. Then it's really hard moving left to get back on the normal line. Jan 12, 2003
Chris Dawson
Denver, CO
 
Chris Dawson   Denver, CO
 
Just a quick comment on the wasp situation at the first belay. It seems that about a million wasps make their home behind the flake that contains the two pin anchor. Unless you are accustomed to having wasps crawling all over you while belaying, I'd recommend avioding this route until it gets cold again. I suppose one could combine the first two pitches, but I'm not sure where a decent belay could be had over the second roof. I had to downclimb the pitch to above the first roof and then climb over to Ruper. May 16, 2002
No, Richard isn't right. Because the Cima Grande isn't at Cinque Torre! It is at the Tre Cime de Laverado. At least the famous Cima Grande of the "Six Great North Faces of the Alps" fame.

Perhaps the Cinque Torre also has a Cima Grande... Apr 1, 2002
Chris Dawson
Denver, CO
 
Chris Dawson   Denver, CO
 
Are those .8 "+"? I wasn't sure. I'm sure you're right though Richard. How about in Eldo... Feb 9, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Better than the Durrance route on the Grand? Or, better than the Standard Route on Cima Grande at Cinque Torre? Feb 8, 2002
Chris Dawson
Denver, CO
 
Chris Dawson   Denver, CO
 
Just did this route again a couple days ago. My partner and I have decided that this is potentially the best route of it's grade anywhere. Anyone disagree? Feb 8, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8+ R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8+ R
The gear is good and frequent enough to be "safe" but not frequent enough to prevent a long fall. The second roof probably could produce a frightening result, as could the first pitch, but I don't think people would be SERIOUSLY injured if they place the available protection.

2 sets of 1.5" to 3.5" cams would help in the first pitch.

I agree that a 5.8 leader should not be on it, but if you feel good on 5.8 and are mentally solid, I don't think 5.10 ability is prerequisite. Jan 14, 2002
It really is a "bucketland"! Go see for yourself! Aug 1, 2001
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
The second roof on this climb is a little hairy; stiff for the grade without reliable protection. Jan 1, 2001