Type: Trad, TR Fixed Hardware (3)
FA: Jack and Pam Roberts, 1998.
Page Views: 1,941 total · 9/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is the bolted route that can be toproped from the rappel off the Upper Ramp to the left of Vertigo. I only heard through word of mouth that it was put up by Jack Roberts, I am not sure if this is true. The Vertigo raps are probably the most popular way off the Upper Ramp, and I am willing to bet many have toproped this route from the last rappel anchor. It starts with a right-facing dihedral with a hard .11b move halfway up. The upper portion of the route climbs a gently overhanging bolted headwall that goes at sequential .12a climbing. This is a fun route to toprope, it would be a very scary route to lead.

Protection

The upper portion of this route has bolts, the lower 5.11 dihedral has horrible pro. I was told it was toproped extensively before it was led.

Photos

You hit the head on the nail, Pat: scary lead, great toprope, sequential 12a moves. Since it falls right under the rap route it makes a great toprope, as long as there aren't people rapping down above you. Aug 1, 2001
Maybe it's just me, but the moves in the dihedral down low seemed more like 10-, and the headwall more like mid-12. This seems odd since I'm a boulderer, so theoretically the bottom should have felt harder than the top. Either way, that move into the sidepull with your left is pretty cool, and the slopey topout is painfully greasy...mmmm.... Apr 10, 2002
Jimmy Farrell
Lexington, KY
  5.12a R
Jimmy Farrell   Lexington, KY
  5.12a R
WOW! What an amazing route. Definitely could be a little scary through the 11b section, but if you can commit to the moves, it flows so nice! The gear is scarce, but it gave me enough courage to make the moves. (It also helped that I did it a couple of times on TR first.) After passing the mental crux, the movement through the 12a section is one of the coolest sequences I've ever done. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED...as a TR or as a very fulfilling lead (if you are comfortable with a committing runout). Sep 16, 2006
Scott Bennett
  5.12a
Scott Bennett  
  5.12a
Great route, good fun to toprope, and I don't think it's as scary a lead as the other comments would indicate. The lower section in the dihedral is not even close to 11b, probably more like mid-10, and when you're at the crux, there a bomber small nut and blue Alien just a few feet below you. You can also get more gear during the lower crux, though it's a little hard to place. It is more runout finishing up the dihedral section, but the climbing is probably 8 or 9.
I think that if you have any chance at getting the top, true crux in the bolted section, then the bottom half shouldn't be a big deal.
-Scott Sep 18, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
I can agree with that. I've never had any problem on the bottom, but have never been able to free the crux up high, though I can usually work out 12a. Sep 20, 2008
GEAR ALERT. As of 1 November 2009, the top bolt is missing. Nov 2, 2009
kevin murphy
Longtuckity, CO
kevin murphy   Longtuckity, CO
Was the bolt pulled because it lies right below a rap station? Great route, I vote the bolt goes back in. Granted the lower part is a bit serious, and it felt all of 5.11. I'm guessing theres an efficient way to do the bottom, and a not so efficient way. I'd be happy to help put the bolt in. Weather has been puuurrrrfffeeeccccttt. Jan 13, 2010
Adam Brink
on the road
Adam Brink   on the road
Has the last bolt been replaced yet? Mar 10, 2010
Josh Janes    
As of last week, the bolt was still missing. The fall from the crux would be pretty bad without that bolt. The hole and sleeve (I think) were still there.... Mar 10, 2010
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
The missing bolt has been replaced. Thanks to ACE for allowing this replacement. Jun 1, 2011
butlerbt
Boulder, CO
  5.12a R
butlerbt   Boulder, CO
  5.12a R
The lower crux could maybe be 11b if one stayed true to the dihedral. I chose to step right, and it appears as though this is the commonly followed path. This way it feels about 10+. Jun 10, 2013