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Redgarden - Tower One

Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall
Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Tower One is the obvious pointy summit of the upper Redgarden Wall. It is probably the only summit in Eldorado Canyon which can be precisely pinpointed with a single finger :) when on top. This section of Redgarden Wall will include routes on Tower One. This will be demarcated by a line connecting West Chimney to The Dirty Deed going all the way to Ruper including that terrain above the Lower Ramp.

The routes in this section certainly rank with some of the longest and finest of Eldorado Canyon. There is more to choose for the moderate climber. Some of these lines may help your spirit soar. For many, these routes hold a special place in the climbers' hearts. One down side to this is that the most popular or famous may develop queues, so plan accordingly.

Some of the best lines here include: the glorious Icarus, 5.6 s; the brilliant Ruper, 5.8 s; Alice in Bucketland, 5.8+ s; the ever-popular route, The Yellow Spur, 5.9 to 5.10b; Italian Arete, 5.9 s; Grand Giraffe, 5.10a; the airy Rosy Crucifixion, 5.10a s; Art's Spar, 5.10c; Superspar, 5.10c; Super Slab, 5.10d; Psychosis, 5.10d s; Vertigo, 5.11b; Doub-Griffith, 5.11c s; Ignition, 5.11d; Mellow Yellow, 5.11d s; Wild Kingdom, 5.12a; Apple Strudel, 5.12a/b s.

One thing to consider here is that lines that face west here do not go into the sun until about 11am or 12pm. Then, for a short time, it may be difficult to distinguish features above you.

It would be wise to plan your descents before you leave the ground since none are completely obvious. Many of the lines that go to the top can be descended with at least 4 methods. 1) You can rappel the Swanson Arete or Dirty Deed rappels with double ropes. 2) You can downscramble the East Slabs Descent (plan - to be fleshed out with its own separate description) low 4th class- note this is exposed, lengthy, and particularly slippery when wet. You may wind up a long way from your gear and comfortable shoes. Also, the last bit can be challenging in the spring with a wet slab finish or funky downclimb down a chimney. 3) you can rappel the Chockstone Chimney rappels which take you to the top of the Upper Ramp or Meadows. Here, you can rappel the Vertigo rappels (60m or 2 ropes) or carefully descend the Upper Meadows to the rappels below The Naked Edge. 4) You perform the lengthy traverse W or left off the top going to the top of Redgarden Wall around Hot Spur and into the 3rd class+ gully.

Getting There

To access this section of Redgarden Wall, you should park at the east end of Eldorado Canyon SP, hike uphill briefly, cross the bridge. Here, for routes from Ruper to Super Slab/Doub-Griffith you may choose one of 2 approaches depending on your preference. You can continue upstream, cross the concrete pad, follow the trail, take the right fork and you arrived nearly at the base of T2. For routes on the west side of Tower One in the vicinity of Vertigo and left, you should take the left fork (see above) and continue around the base of the Pickpocket Wall and catch the Redgarden Trail in the gully between Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge. This is labeled as a climber's access trail. Continue up this trail. Go right at the fork for Kloof Alcove area, ascend railroad tie steps, a small ladder. For routes on Tower One's west face, you likely will go to the area below Yellow Spur's start and 3rd-4th class up a short bit of rock to a ledge system. From here, you will find your route moving left or right on this ledge. Finally, it is possible to ascend a route below the Lower Ramp to gain this same ledge.

Fauna

Per dlm: watch out for rattlesnakes, especially near the stairs.

Routes from Left to Right

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 46
Dirty Deed
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 24
The Ytrid Deed
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
 3
The West Arete (of T1)
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 196
Icarus
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 26
Daedalus
Trad 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
 1
Blueberry Boodle
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 32
Parting Shot
Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 39
Apple Strudel
Trad, Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
The Untouchables
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 41
Ignition
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 8
One and a Half Hours of Power
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 3
Over the Shoulder Stuff
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 914
The Yellow Spur
Trad 6 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 1
Variation to Third Pitch of Yell…
Trad
C2+
 0
Magic Route
Trad, Aid
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 1
Magic Bus
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 2
Neptune's Bible
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Rocky Raccoon
Trad 3 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 1
Deadpoint
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 3
Fresh Garbage
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 5
Neurosis
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 73
Psychosis
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 35
Three Old Farts Young at Heart
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 6
Pigeon Crack
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 19
Song of the Dodo
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 42
Mickey Mouse Nailup
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 7
Magic Carpet Ride
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 1
The Art Of Slappiness
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 264
Vertigo
Trad 4 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
 7
Without A Net
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Mellow Fellow
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 33
Psycho Pigeon
Trad 3 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 20
Mellow Yellow
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
 14
Yellow Fellow
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 10
South Face of Tower One
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 45
Smoke & Mirrors
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 3
Memory Lapse
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 3
Exit Stage Left
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 32
E.L.100
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 60
Body Tremors
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 1
Short Arm Inspection.
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 11
Chockstone Chimney
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Consummation Nite
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 74
Italian Arete
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 7
Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor)
Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
 4
Much Slater (left variation)
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 1
Flashdance
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Better Layton Never
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R
 1
Exhibit A
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 7
Phallus In Suck-It-Land
Trad 3 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 171
Alice in Bucketland
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
 5
To RP Or Not To Be
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 87
Doub-Griffith
Trad 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 27
Superspar
Trad 4 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 163
Super Slab
Trad 4 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 8
Electric Aunt Jemima
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 71
Art's Spar
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 199
Grand Giraffe
Trad 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 2
Grand Giraffe Slot Variation
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
 34
Rover
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 12
Roll Over Rover
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 2
Reaper
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Ruper to Grand Giraffe
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 617
Ruper
Trad 6 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 1
The King Cobra
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dirty Deed
 46
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
The Ytrid Deed
 24
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
The West Arete (of T1)
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X Trad
Icarus
 196
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 3 pitches
Daedalus
 26
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 4 pitches
Blueberry Boodle
 1
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Trad 2 pitches
Parting Shot
 32
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport
Apple Strudel
 39
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
The Untouchables
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
Ignition
 41
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
One and a Half Hours of Power
 8
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Over the Shoulder Stuff
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
The Yellow Spur
 914
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 6 pitches
Variation to Third Pitch of…
 1
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Magic Route
 0
C2+ Trad, Aid
Magic Bus
 1
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
Neptune's Bible
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Rocky Raccoon
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Deadpoint
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Fresh Garbage
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 2 pitches
Neurosis
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad 3 pitches
Psychosis
 73
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Three Old Farts Young at Heart
 35
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad 3 pitches
Pigeon Crack
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
Song of the Dodo
 19
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad, TR
Mickey Mouse Nailup
 42
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 2 pitches
Magic Carpet Ride
 7
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
The Art Of Slappiness
 1
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Vertigo
 264
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Without A Net
 7
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
Mellow Fellow
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Psycho Pigeon
 33
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Mellow Yellow
 20
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Yellow Fellow
 14
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 Trad
South Face of Tower One
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad 3 pitches
Smoke & Mirrors
 45
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Memory Lapse
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Exit Stage Left
 3
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
E.L.100
 32
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Body Tremors
 60
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Short Arm Inspection.
 1
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Chockstone Chimney
 11
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Consummation Nite
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Italian Arete
 74
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
Rosy II - (In Memory Of Lay…
 7
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Much Slater (left variation)
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X Trad 2 pitches
Flashdance
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Better Layton Never
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Exhibit A
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Phallus In Suck-It-Land
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 3 pitches
Alice in Bucketland
 171
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 2 pitches
To RP Or Not To Be
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X Trad
Doub-Griffith
 87
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 3 pitches
Superspar
 27
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Super Slab
 163
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
Electric Aunt Jemima
 8
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Art's Spar
 71
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
Grand Giraffe
 199
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
Grand Giraffe Slot Variation
 2
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Rover
 34
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R Trad 3 pitches
Roll Over Rover
 12
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Reaper
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Ruper to Grand Giraffe
 6
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Ruper
 617
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
The King Cobra
 1
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Redgarden Wall, showing the major features and the general location of several classic climbs.<br>
<br>
[Hide Photo] Redgarden Wall, showing the major features and the general location of several classic climbs.
The walk from the top of the Yellow Spur down to the Chockstone Chimney rappel.
[Hide Photo] The walk from the top of the Yellow Spur down to the Chockstone Chimney rappel.
Unknown climbers on the arete of Tower One.
[Hide Photo] Unknown climbers on the arete of Tower One.
Getting down from Tower One or Lumpe Tower.
[Hide Photo] Getting down from Tower One or Lumpe Tower.
Each rappel station marked here is bolted
[Hide Photo] Each rappel station marked here is bolted
Chockstone Chimney rappel route.  From the top of Upper Ruper, scramble uphill to a wide notch, then down the other side to two huge bolt hangers on the left wall of the chimney.  A 100' rappel with a 60m rope takes you to the Upper Ramp; watch the ends of the rope.<br>
<br>
To descend from here, go around the right (N) side of a short slab and traverse left on a ledge to the rappel tree for the Upper Ramp (Vertigo) rappel route.  See the photo on the Redgarden Wall page for details.<br>
<br>
The pocketed wall to the left is Body Tremors; around the corner to the right is Italian Arete.
[Hide Photo] Chockstone Chimney rappel route. From the top of Upper Ruper, scramble uphill to a wide notch, then down the other side to two huge bolt hangers on the left wall of the chimney. A 100' rappel wit…
Lumpe Tower and Tower One from Rewritten.
[Hide Photo] Lumpe Tower and Tower One from Rewritten.
Upper Ramp rappel route.  From the base of Chockstone Chimney, hike up to the right side of the slab by a tree, then downclimb the slab to a ledge. Traverse left on the ledge to a bolted rappel anchor. <high>This anchor was installed on August 21, 2006 to replace the anchor on the wobbling tree.</high> Rappel 65' to a stance with bolts and chains.<br>
<br>
A second 95' rappel takes you to Vertigo Ledge.  Follow Vertigo Ledge until it intersects the West Face trail.
[Hide Photo] Upper Ramp rappel route. From the base of Chockstone Chimney, hike up to the right side of the slab by a tree, then downclimb the slab to a ledge. Traverse left on the ledge to a bolted rappel anc…
The pocket wall just NE of Tower One summit.
[Hide Photo] The pocket wall just NE of Tower One summit.
The new bolted rappel anchor at the top of the Upper Ramp. Installed 8/21/06.<br>
<br>
Traverse in from climber's left to avoid using the tree to downclimb.<br>
<br>
The rope pull is clean with little friction.  The rope only contacts the rock at the edge of the dropoff (where this photo was taken).<br>
<br>
The old tree anchor is just to the right.
[Hide Photo] The new bolted rappel anchor at the top of the Upper Ramp. Installed 8/21/06. Traverse in from climber's left to avoid using the tree to downclimb. The rope pull is clean with little friction…
The double eared rock is Vertigo's spectacular finish.
[Hide Photo] The double eared rock is Vertigo's spectacular finish.
Vertigo rappel. Unknown climber.
[Hide Photo] Vertigo rappel. Unknown climber.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

ROC
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] WARNING!!!

The rappel tree on the top of the upper ramp (that puts you more or less at the base of Vertigo) is NOT stable. I was up there last week in high winds and the entire tree was lifting up out of the ground with each gust. I was sitting on the rocks near the tree and was lifted off the ground each time the tree would move. I left a rap anchor that consisted of three equalized stoppers, but I'm afraid the new anchor will be treated like booty gear. The tree may be fine, but under the circumstances I was not willing to trust my life to, "it's probably okay".
Apr 5, 2006
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Sergio P
Idaho Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] Vertigo Rap beta:

Once on the upper ramp walk to Chockstone Chimney route. Walk about 15’ higher and begin looking over the edge for a small tree about 20’ below the rim. This sits between a small saddle of the top of the upper ramp and a large rock out cropping. Down climb to the tree. Looking at the wall look right about 15’ for the painted bolts and chain. 2 single rope raps gets you to the Yellow Spur ledge. Apr 7, 2008
James Beissel
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] High resolution panorama of Tower One (2,528 megapixels).
(The viewer requires Adobe Flash.)

jamesbeissel.com/gigapan/re…

The Vertigo Raps are visible in this panorama of Tower Two:

jamesbeissel.com/gigapan/re… Nov 19, 2010