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Routes in Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp

Apprehension T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Arcane Saw T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bitter Route, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Cabana Boy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Candy-O T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Captain Crunch S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Day Dream T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Dispensary, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dogpatch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flakey Floont T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flower Quarter T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Greaser, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hasting's Cutoff T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kor Direct to Super Slab T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Lemon Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lime Line T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Loose Lucy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Lucid Dream T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Mr. Natural T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over 'ed Power Line T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Phee-nix T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Pickpocket T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Quantum Mechanics T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Real Men Eat Eggs T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Remention T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rosy I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rough Roof T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Roving for Love T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Schizophrenia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senora (??) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Senorita T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shadow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slimy Spoon, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strangle Hold T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Stray Stud T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sub Slab T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Suparete T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Super Natural, aka Dr. Thrill T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Super Slab Direct Start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tiny Line T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Toys for Tots T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Velvet Hammer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vertical Smile T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Waking Sleep T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Zombies on the Lookout T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Elevation: 6,034 ft
GPS: 39.931, -105.285 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 25,597 total, 179/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

This section of Redgarden Wall is easily defined since it encompasses the rock below the Lower Ramp. This Lower Ramp is the Flatiron-like ramp at the upper end of the Roof Routes. Rock in this section is decent to good in spots, but certainly is fractured & loose in others. Helmets may be advisable for days playing here. On the positive side, this area is rarely, if ever, crowded.

Probably the most notable press this section of the cliff has received was when it was highlighted with Eric Johnson seeking to tick the obscure, Rough Roof, 5.12b s/vs in Peter Mortimer's excellent Front Range Freaks.

Certainly, this section may be lean on the classics. In fact, if you read through the list here for Redgarden Wall, none of these made that list. One was close. For the visiting climber with limited time, this area may be skipped. Nonetheless, for the discerning palate, there are still some delicacies here.

Some of the better routes in the section may include: Vertical Smile, 5.7; Pickpocket, 5.8 vs or TR; The Slimy Spoon, 5.8 PG-13; Mr. Natural, 5.8+; Unknown, 5.10c+; Breakfast of Champions, 5.11a s; the near-list-making Suparete, 5.11a/b; Toys for Tots, 5.11a/b; Rough Roof, 5.12b s/vs; Captain Crunch, 5.13a.

Note, Roving for Love, 5.11c s, was included here, since in the description it begins here with Suparete.

Descents here may involve rappels or downclimbing the top of the Lower Ramp or other ramps.

So, for the seeker of the obscure or the road less-traveled, close to the road in Eldorado Canyon, perhaps a wander in this area is worth your energy.
Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
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Getting There

To approach this section of the Redgarden Wall, park at the E end of the park. Hike to the bridge, cross the bridge, hike W along the base of Whale's Tail. Continue across the concrete pad, follow the trail. At the fork, go L. The first rock you reach here will be the Pickpocket Wall. To reach most of the routes here, you can take the 3rd class Redgarden Trail which follows around the the western-facing sections of the Redgarden Wall. Some routes like Vertical Smile may trickier to locate and involve the approach to the Roof Routes and bushwhacking around the left side of the Lower Ramp.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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