Elevation: 6,034 ft
GPS: 39.931, -105.285 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 30,674 total · 194/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This section of Redgarden Wall is easily defined since it encompasses the rock below the Lower Ramp. This Lower Ramp is the Flatiron-like ramp at the upper end of the Roof Routes. Rock in this section is decent to good in spots, but certainly is fractured & loose in others. Helmets may be advisable for days playing here. On the positive side, this area is rarely, if ever, crowded.

Probably the most notable press this section of the cliff has received was when it was highlighted with Eric Johnson seeking to tick the obscure, Rough Roof, 5.12b s/vs in Peter Mortimer's excellent Front Range Freaks.

Certainly, this section may be lean on the classics. In fact, if you read through the list here for Redgarden Wall, none of these made that list. One was close. For the visiting climber with limited time, this area may be skipped. Nonetheless, for the discerning palate, there are still some delicacies here.

Some of the better routes in the section may include: Vertical Smile, 5.7; Pickpocket, 5.8 vs or TR; The Slimy Spoon, 5.8 PG-13; Mr. Natural, 5.8+; Unknown, 5.10c+; Breakfast of Champions, 5.11a s; the near-list-making Suparete, 5.11a/b; Toys for Tots, 5.11a/b; Rough Roof, 5.12b s/vs; Captain Crunch, 5.13a.

Note, Roving for Love, 5.11c s, was included here, since in the description it begins here with Suparete.

Descents here may involve rappels or downclimbing the top of the Lower Ramp or other ramps.

So, for the seeker of the obscure or the road less-traveled, close to the road in Eldorado Canyon, perhaps a wander in this area is worth your energy.

Getting There

To approach this section of the Redgarden Wall, park at the E end of the park. Hike to the bridge, cross the bridge, hike W along the base of Whale's Tail. Continue across the concrete pad, follow the trail. At the fork, go L. The first rock you reach here will be the Pickpocket Wall. To reach most of the routes here, you can take the 3rd class Redgarden Trail which follows around the the western-facing sections of the Redgarden Wall. Some routes like Vertical Smile may trickier to locate and involve the approach to the Roof Routes and bushwhacking around the left side of the Lower Ramp.

54 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp

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