Type: Trad, 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Pat Ament, Larry Dalke, 1962. FFA: Jim Erickson, Jim Walsh, 1968.
Page Views: 21,539 total · 93/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a great climb.

P1. Start with a technical .9 crack underneath an overhang. This pitch has a reputation for being hard to protect, bullocks, it accepts small stoppers without a problem. Break left, surmount the roof and belay at a tree with two bolts next to it.

P2. Although one can do the crux roof from here, it is a pain in the ass. I do a short 5.6 pitch to the base of the dihedral that forms the crux roof. From here, climb up the dihedral (easy) and tackle the roof via several technical stemming type moves (solid 5.10) there is some 5.8 above the roof to a belay on a ledge. The pro in the roof (pins) isn't too bad, a #1 Camalot can be placed at the lip to further protect it.

Protection

Bring several small stoppers in addition to a standard rack.

Photos