Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This popular rock can be divided in character into its south and southwest face. The SW face has some of the most frequently climbed routes in Eldorado Canyon and is probably the best area in Eldorado Canyon for those seeking lower end difficulty climbing. The rock is stellar for the first two pitches of climbs on this face. Above this the rock has seen less traffic and still has loose rock for the unsuspecting climber.

Famous climbers have been climbing this rock since the early 1950s. On occasion, you may find yourself face-to-face with a legendary climber soloing on by you as enjoy this rock.

Ultra-classics such as Calypso, 5.6 and Wind Ridge, 5.6 are great for beginners but often have long queues, please be patient. Pitch 3 of Wind Ridge has one of the most interesting roofs in all of Eldorado Canyon. Other good lines include Breezy, 5.4; The Bomb, 5.4; Boulder Direct, 5.5; the irascible Tigger, 5.5; Recon, 5.6; Reggae, 5.8; Wind Tower Slab, 5.9 TR; the slippery Tagger, 5.10b/c; and the impressive Salvation, 5.12a/b s.

Note, that according to Park statistics, Calypso is one of the most hazardous routes in the park, so protect it well.

Getting There

The approach takes an arduous 5 min. from the parking lot. Take the bridge across S. Boulder Creek, then take the marked path up to the wall. Please stay on the path since it is well built to minimize erosion and rock slide.

32 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Wind Tower - SW Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Wind Tower - SW Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 293
The Bomb
Trad, TR 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 302
Breezy
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 832
Calypso
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 237
Tigger
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 866
Wind Ridge
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 248
West Overhang
Trad 2 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 41
Lemmings
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 476
Reggae
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 35
Tigger Plus
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 120
Calypso Direct
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 47
Calypso Direct Start
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
 46
Across The River From Butt Hair
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 8
I Did It My Way
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 19
Rastaman Roof
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 349
Tagger
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Bomb
 293
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR 2 pitches
Breezy
 302
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Calypso
 832
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Tigger
 237
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Wind Ridge
 866
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
West Overhang
 248
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Lemmings
 41
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Reggae
 476
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Tigger Plus
 35
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Calypso Direct
 120
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Calypso Direct Start
 47
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Across The River From Butt…
 46
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
I Did It My Way
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, TR
Rastaman Roof
 19
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Tagger
 349
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Wind Tower - SW Face »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
Anybody happen to know what that easy little warm up slot to the right of The Bomb is??? I can't find beta on it anywhere. I'd give it a 5.3 or 5.4... Done it twice to just get warmed up and play around. Kinda fun, but short and easy. Set up the belay on the tiny evergreen to the right of the first Bomb rap. Last two times I did it I scooted climber left to Calypso's pins and rapped from there. Any info, let me know!!! Thanks.~WM Apr 11, 2003
Shawn Shannon
Everett, WA
Shawn Shannon   Everett, WA
GET THE BETA ON YOUR DECENT ROUTE or it's just a pain in the ass.

If you climb to the top of Wind Tower instead of taking the exit trail, do yourself a favor and take the time to get the beta on the decent (repell bolts) for your route!! We went half-hearted to the top thinking we'll just find our way down when we get there, everyone had told us that "they're there." We didn't immediately find a way down and thought we'd cruise down the slabs. It took us longer to get down than up. We did one repel plus a mini one. We didn't feel as bad about it after we noticed quite a few sets of slings littering the trees. :) Apr 28, 2003
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
In that case.... after topping out on the wind tower, travel north for approximately 200 yards from the summit point. Travel is typically easiest on the E side of the ridge within ~50 yards of the ridgeline (it varies). Get to an obvious rotton notch that's about 10-15 feet wide. The bolts face north, are in this notch, and are set up to allow a good rappell back down to the visible descent trail 60 feet below. Apr 29, 2003
I usually abhor such crowded routes and have gotten back to the Flatirons after years of Eldo but who doesn't love this one? At one time this was said to be the most travelled route in the state. Can anyone comment that it still is? Jun 12, 2004
Luis Barandiaran
Longmont, CO
Luis Barandiaran   Longmont, CO
We did the three pitches up Wind Ridge today... the third pitch is definitely worth doing. Roof feels like 5.6. Jug city after that. From the summit, the best to do for [descent] is to downclimb towards the north until you run across a thick old cable strung across the slabs. This runs for 40 or 50 feet. From there, don't head straight up the notch, but continue 20 feet or so to the next one. On the West facing side there's two [vertically] stacked rappel bolts. It's an easy single rope rappel to the decent trail. Enjoy... I sure did! Jul 16, 2005
Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
ACE: Rap bolt upgrade occurred on 11/15/2013.
Removed a 3/8" x 2.5" plated Rawl with Metolius Fat hanger.
Installed a 1/2" x 4.5" SS Rawl with SS double ring hanger.
(The second bolt was already a SS glue-in.) Nov 15, 2013