Erickson's Wide Crack
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | J. Erickson, solo, 1980 |
Page Views: | 2,032 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on May 31, 2011 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This climb is a variation pitch to Breezy's second pitch which links to the final pitch of Wind Ridge. The climbing here is fun. Being a true offwidth climb for a few body-lengths of the pitch, and a steep clean one at that, the crux climbing on this is a rarity for Eldorado canyon and is worth doing.
For the sake of the description, it will be described as a multi-pitch, but the line is direct enough that we ran a single 200' pitch from the base of Breezy/Wind Ridge to the walk off up top with virtually no drag.
Climb the first pitch of Wind Ridge to the ledge (optional belay). Continue a few feet up the corner above the belay before working out and right side of the corner; Breezy goes and stays left. Pick your way through delicate flakes and up to the bottom of a bulging wide crack. Place a solid #5 Camalot (new style) on the base of the crack and start working your way up past the crux bulge (fist jam, old or new #4 Camalot, knee lock, etc.) and grunt your way into the crack. Once established in it, the climbing gets much easier. Head up the crack to the arete and join the Wind Ridge (belay optional), continuing to the walk-off ledge up top.
Do be careful not to knock any loose rocks down on Breezy, below, which may be crowded.
For the sake of the description, it will be described as a multi-pitch, but the line is direct enough that we ran a single 200' pitch from the base of Breezy/Wind Ridge to the walk off up top with virtually no drag.
Climb the first pitch of Wind Ridge to the ledge (optional belay). Continue a few feet up the corner above the belay before working out and right side of the corner; Breezy goes and stays left. Pick your way through delicate flakes and up to the bottom of a bulging wide crack. Place a solid #5 Camalot (new style) on the base of the crack and start working your way up past the crux bulge (fist jam, old or new #4 Camalot, knee lock, etc.) and grunt your way into the crack. Once established in it, the climbing gets much easier. Head up the crack to the arete and join the Wind Ridge (belay optional), continuing to the walk-off ledge up top.
Do be careful not to knock any loose rocks down on Breezy, below, which may be crowded.
Location
This pitch starts at the top of P1 of Breezy , heading up the corner and then out right to the obvious wide crack, then continues up a shallow, left-facing corner to join Wind Ridge.
Photos
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