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Routes in Wind Tower - SW Face

Calypso Direct Start T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Across The River From Butt Hair T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Bomb, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Boulder Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Breezy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Calypso T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Calypso Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Day 444 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Erickson's Wide Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
G.Y. Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Governor's Climb, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Hard-Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I Did It My Way T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Jimmy Cliff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Left Out T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Lemmings T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My Own Way T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
No, Do it My Way T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raisin Bran T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rastaman Roof T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Recon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Reggae T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roofed Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Salvation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stagger T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Tagger T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tigger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tigger Plus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Variety T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Overhang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wind Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wind Tower Slab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: J. Stuberg, M. Downing, 1981
Page Views: 659 total, 13/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 1, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Day 444 is a route with some fun movement in spots, but the lichen, poor rock quality, limited opportunity for bomber protection, and dispersed loose blocks and pebbles throughout separate it in memory from other area routes, not its 'fun factor.

I had last climbed the route in 1995 and was probably one of the last few people to do it prior to repeating it in 2013 when my 120 lb (if soaking wet and carrying a rack) climbing partner pulled a microwave-oven-sized block off of the climb, and there are more of these to go.
If you must climb here, then be careful up there, wear a helmet, put the belayer out of harm's way, stash the packs on high ground, and watch your step (and grip).

The base can be found in some bushes just left of a broken and discontinuous, right-racing corner 25 meters uphill, where a small, thin offset and splitter goes up a slight overhang for the first 4 meters of climbing prior to passing by a small bulge/roof on your left.

Continue up and gradually right for a while, wandering somewhat to get pro and avoid loose gravel and flakes. At about 50', there is a very loose band which has produced even recent rockfall. Up higher, a bump left will be necessary to avoid going through a large, overhanging inset near the top of the rock. The walk-off ledge used to come down from Breezy and Wind Ridge is just above that and there is a 8" diameter pine tree and then a large block to sling for protection and a belay on that ledge.

Location

This climb starts uphill and perhaps 25 meters left of the Breezy dihedral.

Protection

A standard light rack of stoppers and cams from tips to #3 Camalot. It sounds like a lot of gear, but not all of it is great. Also, bring long slings.

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
My partner pulled one of the multiple flakes off that I had avoided. I think the flood or the freeze-thaws got to this route pretty bad. Jan 21, 2014
I did this route about five years ago. I remember a somewhat chossy but not dangerous route. It sounds like conditions have recently changed. Dec 4, 2013