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Routes in Wind Tower - SW Face

Calypso Direct Start T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Across The River From Butt Hair T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Bomb, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Boulder Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Breezy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Calypso T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Calypso Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Day 444 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Erickson's Wide Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
G.Y. Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Governor's Climb, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Hard-Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I Did It My Way T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Jimmy Cliff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Left Out T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Lemmings T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My Own Way T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
No, Do it My Way T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raisin Bran T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rastaman Roof T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Recon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Reggae T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roofed Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Salvation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stagger T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Tagger T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tigger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tigger Plus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Variety T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Overhang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wind Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wind Tower Slab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, TR, 105 ft
FA: First lead: Jim Erickson 1972
Page Views: 435 total, 2/month
Shared By: Chris Dawson on Sep 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Located on the face to the right of the first pitch of Calypso. Start with the 5.8 face move direct start to Calypso. Once you reach the top of the boulder move mostly straight up averaging about 15 ft. or so to the right of Calypso. Near the top of the pitch pull over a small overlap (cruxy). Most often a toprope from the Calypso anchors. I soloed it onsight so I can't give exact beta on potential gear. Better to run a TR first if unsure about it. Nice thin face, a couple of fun moves. One star for rock quality and some good movements. Almost feels a little contrived. One could easily move a short ways to the right and climb the groove of Boulder Direct (5.0). Possible a little easy for the grade, but given the state of the pro, we'll leave that be.

Protection

Not much pro on this pitch. Anything you get in is going to be really small (RPs or Aliens, etc.)

Photos

Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.9+ X
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.9+ X
Fun moves on good stone. Anywhere from mid-5.10 to 5.9 depending on what contrived path you choose. There's a pretty blank panel about 1/3-1/2 way up that's pretty fun to scratch your way up for a few moves. Didn't see much of any pro, definitely X rated if one were to lead it. Feb 21, 2015
My last comment was in response to a remark by an Anonymous Coward that read: "spray alert", which was subsequently removed much to my dismay. -CD Feb 12, 2002
Chris Dawson
Denver, CO
 
Chris Dawson   Denver, CO
 
I really don't appreciate that AC. The only reason I even mentioned the style of ascent was to [clarify] why I gave absolutely no info about pro. You'd think on a route like this one that someone would remember the gear they used to protect it. It's an apology to anyone [interested] in climbing the route for my poor description of the protection. I'm not trying to brag. Soloing 5.9 is completely insignificant compared to what good climbers do. [Derek], John, Peter and Dean are/were worlds beyond what I've ever done and will ever do. I saw the route wasn't posted, thought maybe someone would like to do it, and so I posted it and gave information about my ascent. If you've got a problem with that maybe you can come out and say it instead of hiding behind a screen of anonymity. Feb 12, 2002