Type: Trad, TR, 105 ft
FA: First lead: Jim Erickson 1972
Page Views: 607 total · 3/month
Shared By: Chris Dawson on Sep 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Located on the face to the right of the first pitch of Calypso. Start with the 5.8 face move direct start to Calypso. Once you reach the top of the boulder move mostly straight up averaging about 15 ft. or so to the right of Calypso. Near the top of the pitch pull over a small overlap (cruxy). Most often a toprope from the Calypso anchors. I soloed it onsight so I can't give exact beta on potential gear. Better to run a TR first if unsure about it. Nice thin face, a couple of fun moves. One star for rock quality and some good movements. Almost feels a little contrived. One could easily move a short ways to the right and climb the groove of Boulder Direct (5.0). Possible a little easy for the grade, but given the state of the pro, we'll leave that be.

Protection

Not much pro on this pitch. Anything you get in is going to be really small (RPs or Aliens, etc.)

Photos

Chris Dawson
Grand Junction, CO
  5.9
Chris Dawson   Grand Junction, CO
  5.9
I really don't appreciate that AC. The only reason I even mentioned the style of ascent was to [clarify] why I gave absolutely no info about pro. You'd think on a route like this one that someone would remember the gear they used to protect it. It's an apology to anyone [interested] in climbing the route for my poor description of the protection. I'm not trying to brag. Soloing 5.9 is completely insignificant compared to what good climbers do. [Derek], John, Peter and Dean are/were worlds beyond what I've ever done and will ever do. I saw the route wasn't posted, thought maybe someone would like to do it, and so I posted it and gave information about my ascent. If you've got a problem with that maybe you can come out and say it instead of hiding behind a screen of anonymity. Feb 12, 2002
My last comment was in response to a remark by an Anonymous Coward that read: "spray alert", which was subsequently removed much to my dismay. -CD Feb 12, 2002
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.9+ X
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.9+ X
Fun moves on good stone. Anywhere from mid-5.10 to 5.9 depending on what contrived path you choose. There's a pretty blank panel about 1/3-1/2 way up that's pretty fun to scratch your way up for a few moves. Didn't see much of any pro, definitely X rated if one were to lead it. Feb 21, 2015