Avg: 3.1 from 1,015 votes
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Layton Kor and Jane Bendixon. 1959 of 5.8 variation: Phil Olinick|
|Page Views:||65,895 total · 267/month|
|Shared By:||Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Start at the left end of the tower and next to a tree at the base of the obvious arete. Go left up the obvious, wide gully, and traverse right onto the face. Once you top onto the flake go around the corner onto the west face. From this point on, the climbing eases and follows a crack with good holds to a large ledge where a belay can be set up.
Alternative start (5.8):
Pitch 1: start out around left corner of the tower (northwest), and go up awkward an awkward flake with good pro. This is the 5.8 start. Head right onto west face and follow this crack and nice holds straight up the face to big ledge and belay. Alternate start: go up left of flake for 20 feet and traverse onto face.
Pitch 2: go right on small ledge to larger crack with a powerful crank to get into the crack, and follow it as it zig-zags and gets thinner then much wider...then to offwidth section ... and up to big ledge with small cave for belay (pro in small cave for belay). You can traverse off here leftward on 4th class terrain.
Pitch 3: surmount an amazing roof with various contortions to get situated on a flake. Aliens are helpful here. Proceed up on slightly loose rock to a tree above another bulge. Belay here. Caution: there are lots of loose rocks here.
Pitch 4: traverse leftward on an amazing but easy walkway. Angle down to a notch, 80 feet. Long slings are useful. Find a 2 bolt rappel station and rappel. Scramble back to the base.