Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Layton Kor and Jane Bendixon. 1959 of 5.8 variation: Phil Olinick
Page Views: 78,467 total · 275/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Original start (5.6):

Start at the left end of the tower and next to a tree at the base of the obvious arete. Go left up the obvious, wide gully, and traverse right onto the face. Once you top onto the flake go around the corner onto the west face. From this point on, the climbing eases and follows a crack with good holds to a large ledge where a belay can be set up.

Alternative start (5.8):

Pitch 1: start out around left corner of the tower (northwest), and go up awkward an awkward flake with good pro. This is the 5.8 start. Head right onto west face and follow this crack and nice holds straight up the face to big ledge and belay. Alternate start: go up left of flake for 20 feet, and traverse onto face.

Pitch 2: go right on small ledge to larger crack with a powerful crank to get into the crack, and follow it as it zig-zags and gets thinner then much wider...then to offwidth section ... and up to big ledge with small cave for belay (pro in small cave for belay). You can traverse off here leftward on 4th Class terrain.

Pitch 3: surmount an amazing roof with various contortions to get situated on a flake. Aliens are helpful here. Proceed up on slightly loose rock to a tree above another bulge. Belay here. Per Peter Thomas: you can belay off of a small tree 20 feet back. Caution: there are lots of loose rocks here.

Pitch 4: traverse leftward on an amazing but easy walkway. Angle down to a notch, 80 feet. Long slings are useful. Find a 2 bolt rappel station and rappel. (Note: per Kurtz: you cannot see the rappel station until you reach it, because it is located in a deep notch.) Scramble back to the base.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack.

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