Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,143 total · 13/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The route can be approached by climbing the first pitch of Calypso, Boulder Direct, Recon, etc... anything that takes you to the big ledge/ramp that leads down and south from the anchors atop of P1 of Calypso.

Just below the big alcove of the West Overhang is another system that climbs up and to a second roof. The route follows a large crack through the second roof where there is a small amount of poor rock.

The best way to do this route is to start on West Overhang, come through that roof, then step to the right and finish through the second roof (Lemmings) instead of on the easy crack/corner of the West Overhang. Done this way, the route gets a single * and is slightly better protected.

To descend, traverse left from the top of the route to the fixed rap anchors above Boulder Direct.

Protection

The route can be protected on a standard rack plus a big piece (#4 Camalot) near the crux.

The protection takes some creativity and is only satisfactory, not great. This should not be lead by a borderline 5.8 leader.

Photos