Type: Trad
FA: in guidebook
Page Views: 1,984 total · 7/month
Shared By: Bill Wright on Sep 25, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This route is on the far west edge of the south face and provides a great introduction to the more difficult routes on the south face. This route has all the character of the other routes, but with less technical difficult. The exposure is quite nice and the moves are challenging.

The route can be accessed by any lower south face route or any route that climbs the lower west face of the Wind Tower. The Bomb or West Overhang or Hard Up make reasonable approach routes.

As with many south face routes, this one is stiff for the grade. The guidebook gives it 5.8, but I think it is more like 5.9-. The climbing at the start is dead vertical and runout a bit. The climbing is interesting and you have to work a bit for the gear and keep a cool head. The upper section might have some semi-loose flakes, but they are no problem - climb like an alpinist and test the holds, but most are very solid. The difficulties are much easier on the upper section, but the exposure is great as you traverse up and right with the whole south face below you.

Protection Suggest change

This route is a bit runout and gear takes some effort to place. Not recommended for a 5.8 leader. No RP's are necessary. Single units from stoppers to #2 Camalot. I think a #3 Camalot is useful just before the exit, but not required.