Type: Trad
FA: in guidebook
Page Views: 1,202 total · 6/month
Shared By: Bill Wright on Sep 25, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

16 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


This route is on the far west edge of the south face and provides a great introduction to the more difficult routes on the south face. This route has all the character of the other routes, but with less technical difficult. The exposure is quite nice and the moves are challenging.

The route can be accessed by any lower south face route or any route that climbs the lower west face of the Wind Tower. The Bomb or West Overhang or Hard Up make reasonable approach routes.

As with many south face routes, this one is stiff for the grade. The guidebook gives it 5.8, but I think it is more like 5.9-. The climbing at the start is dead vertical and runout a bit. The climbing is interesting and you have to work a bit for the gear and keep a cool head. The upper section might have some semi-loose flakes, but they are no problem - climb like an alpinist and test the holds, but most are very solid. The difficulties are much easier on the upper section, but the exposure is great as you traverse up and right with the whole south face below you.


This route is a bit runout and gear takes some effort to place. Not recommended for a 5.8 leader. No RP's are necessary. Single units from stoppers to #2 Camalot. I think a #3 Camalot is useful just before the exit, but not required.


Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
This is a good and exciting route. Althought I'd occasionally noticed it in the guidebook, I never considered doing it until seeing it on this site a couple of days ago. As Bill suggests, you should be a strong 5.9 leader with good gear skills. The first half of the pitch could lead to a ledge fall if you blow the gear and lose your cool. The upper half , when you come back around onto the west side, it much easier and better protected. Luke Clarke did a good job leading this, although he missed a few pieces I would have placed. I really liked this route, perhaps because of the sense of discovery. We approached this via Hard-Up, another route I'd never done and never considered doing. May 1, 2004
Brent Roaten
Anchorage, AK
  5.9 R
Brent Roaten   Anchorage, AK
  5.9 R
Did this route today also linking it with Hard Up. I must say this is a difficult and sustained route for the grade with significant runouts and pumpy stances for some difficult gear placements. There is a lot of loose rock on the route one of which hit my belayer in the ankle requiring multiple stitches. Because of the accident, I was forced to leave some nuts and draws at the top of the route. If any anyone cleans these, I would love to have them back. Despite the epic, the route is great as long as you are not pushing your limit at the grade....and BEWARE of loose rock. May 28, 2006
Brent Roaten
Anchorage, AK
  5.9 R
Brent Roaten   Anchorage, AK
  5.9 R
Climbed again on 5/29 and retrieved my gear. In the picture Luke Clarke is to the right of the arete whereas I was left of the arete at the same level on 5/28 and the climbing is significantly more difficult. On 5/29, stepping to the right I found an excellent cam placement under the roof and then proceeded straight up the arete...much easier. If you are comfortable going above your gear, do not shy away from this excellent route. May 30, 2006
Greg D
  5.8+ R
Greg D   Here
  5.8+ R
Really good route. Would be 3 stars if not for the small amount of loose rock. Great exposure. The moves are a bit deceptive in the beginning. A #3 Camalot was very nice to place in a triangular slot right off the ground during the first few juggy moves. A comparable sized hex may be even better. Jun 5, 2011