Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 11,883 total · 49/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 7, 2001 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

306 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


The route can be approached by climbing the first pitch of Calypso, Boulder Direct, Recon, etc... anything that takes you to the big ledge/ramp that leads down and south from the anchors atop of P1 of Calypso. This is another long-time favorite solo due [to the] nature of the route- big holds and big (but secure) moves.

Reach the ledge and move near its center to an alcove capped by a large brown roof composed of solid large flakes. Climb to the roof and clip a fixed pin (fairly solid) and back it up with a piece... then stem your way up and out, continuing to the top or to a [convenient] point of escape. After 60' or so, it is possible to [traverse] left to reach the fixed rap anchors above Boulder Direct, (shown in photograph) this is option is runout might be "exciting" for beginning leaders.

This route is clean, solid, and generally pretty safe. I've taken 1st timer's on it in tennis shoes, but seen a few leaders get puckered on it. It depends on your comfort level. Big holds, big moves... go for it.


The route can be protected on a standard rack. The first crux is at a reasonably good pin and the other moves are pretty well protected with nuts and cams. Well managed gear and a 70 m rope will get you to the large ledge in one pitch.