Type: Trad
FA: R. [Rossiter], 1981 (solo)
Page Views: 2,423 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

19 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


Refer to the directions to Reggae. This route is a significant variation of Reggae, in that it has 40' of independent climbing, skips the crux of Reggae, and gives one of a harder an much different nature.

After starting up Reggae and going about 40 or so feet, Reggae starts to get more vertical and difficult. In the attached picture, this is [almost] due right of the climber on Reggae. At this point, move up and right to a right-leaning crack system. A little gear will be possible there, but not a lot, so protect well before you leave the initial dihedral. [The] moves are not difficult until you reach the roof. Move up and right in the crack to head for the apex of the obvious roof above. An eye-of the needle can be threaded by the leader, but this is not your destination.

Instead, get to the apex of the roof, just left of the left-facing dihedral at its side. Hand-jam out on strenous but solid moves though the roof and over the top of the blocks which form it.

Go down and right to belay before taking [the] scramble off as for Reggae.


The protection is reasonable. If approaching from Calypso-to-Reggae, a set of stoppers and a set of cams should do. Crux pro for Rastaman Roof (in the roof) is 2-3" cams.


Clint Locks
Clint Locks   Boulder
A nice variation to Reggae, a classic in its own right. The pro IS a bit thin from the Reggae dihedral out on the slab, but the climbing is pretty moderate. Do your best to protect your second; the swing would be a bummer there. The pro is great under the roof and it's a very airy and strenous (albeit short) crux!

A short downclimb gets you to the double bolt rap anchors in an alcove. Two raps on a 60 meter line. Jul 16, 2003
Brent Roaten
Anchorage, AK
Brent Roaten   Anchorage, AK
Linked this route with Boulder Direct yesterday rather than Reggae. Very well protected crux with solid hand jams above the roof. Apr 27, 2006
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
Super fun couple of moves, if only it was longer! Seemed too easy to warrant the dreaded 5.9+ grade, but this may be accurate for those with a shorter reach. I was able to grab/jam the crack at the lip, pull up, then latch on to the jug further up and pull over. Mar 4, 2014
Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
Ed Krejcik   Broomfield, CO
I agree with Eric, probably Eldo 5.9, and I'm short. It's really a one move wonder with bomber cams in the crux. Fun one move though. I approached from directly below after rapping down to the ledge after doing Reggae. Basically a walk up till the crux. Mar 18, 2017
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
I think the roof shifted - the crux is now red Camalots and thinner. Seems harder. Maybe I had a high gravity day and too much drag (ran Wind Tower Slab into it for a single 60m pitch), but my partner who leads 5.10-5.11 regularly took a few hangs following... so I think it changed.
Seems stable though - that massive car-sized rock just settled an inch, I guess. May 20, 2017
Boulder, Colorado
Dr. VARMENT   Boulder, Colorado
5.9 is spot on. One or two move wonder, just lock off and get a high foot. Took bomber #1 BDs, certainly fun...maybe more fun would be crawling through the hole underneath the roof. Oct 16, 2017