Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 235 total · 1/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Jun 11, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a route that is probably best avoided. Climb the first pitch of Calypso Direct (5.8) or Tagger (5.10c) to a large pine tree and 2-bolt anchor. From here, head up and gradually right to a right-facing dihedral. Climb the lichen-encrusted corner with poor pro that no one ever climbs to gain the walk-off ledge. [Although Tagger is 10c, climbing the first pitch to the pine tree (start for GY) is 5.9]

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
Agreed with the lichen part. We climbed this yesterday and my partner decided to back off on the lichen encrusted corner and lead right through the notch (Tigger?).

On toprope I found this to be a reasonable 5.8. But in the crux (stemming ontop of the flake) I found it to be a bit slabby and licheny. Additionally, while you can get solid gear in under the flake, there is no gear above the critical move so its pretty unprotected.

At the top of the dihedral there is a bush to surmount adding to the adventure. All in all not a bad climb (if youre following it :-) but a hairy lead) Apr 23, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
This thing is such a prominent feature, yet it gets almost no traffic. I cleaned the lichen off of it years ago... and to a small degree, again today. Perhaps since it is not for the squeamish if you are only leading 5.8. You could take a big fall from the crux if your small/marginal gear there failed.
There are good holds on the arete to the left of the bush, so go left there and back. Mar 4, 2013