Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Pat Ament and Larry Dalke, 1965
Page Views: 7,614 total · 40/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Jun 11, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


120 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

A fun alternate exit for Calypso. Start up Calypso. At the roof where Calypso heads right, cut up and left instead through a steep crack (5.8) up to a ledge with a large pine tree and 2-bolt anchor with rap rings (this is the top of the first pitch of Tagger). Rap 75' from here to the ground or continue up Tigger (5.5), Tagger (5.10c), Across the River from Butt Hair (5.9), or the G.Y. Dihedral (5.8 - not recommended) to the walk-off ledge.

See existing comments on Calypso for additional beta.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
Another option for P2 of this variation... once you've cleared the roof and gained the ledge above, climb the slab straight up another 20' or so, traverse right, then down another 20' to gain the ramp for linking this with Reggae. The traverse is easy, but runnout. A solid black Alien was my only placement... Dec 11, 2003
Jason Shatek  
 
This is a fun alternative to Calypso with a bit more spice! The overhang is a lot of fun to go over! My first 5.8. On a gear note, as you are going over the overhang to the right of the crack and up is a pocket that takes a red alien and protects well through the crux. Watch out though, on the overhang you have to lieback on a really good hold that felt solid but I noticed cracks all the way around it. A fantastic route! Nov 3, 2004
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
A fun route! Sep 12, 2006
rob.calm
Loveland, CO
  5.8
rob.calm   Loveland, CO
  5.8
Another alternate for P2 is Roofed Out, which makes for a nice 2-pitch climb. Another comment on gear. One can climb up to the R of the roof getting high enough to set 0.5 Camalot in a horizontal crack that is on the L. Either finish the route from there (~5.9) or downclimb after setting the protection and climb up the L side of the roof (the usual way). Jun 4, 2010