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Routes in Wind Tower - SW Face
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Across The River From Butt Hair T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bomb, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Boulder Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Breezy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Calypso T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Calypso Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Calypso Direct Start T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Day 444 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Erickson's Wide Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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G.Y. Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Governor's Climb, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Hard-Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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I Did It My Way T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Jimmy Cliff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Left Out T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Lemmings T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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My Own Way T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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No, Do It My Way T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Raisin Bran T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Rastaman Roof T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Recon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Reggae T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roofed Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Salvation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stagger T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Tagger T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tigger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Tigger Plus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown Left of West Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Variety T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Overhang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wind Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wind Tower Slab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
| Type: |
Trad, TR, 2 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(2) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 24,699 total · 85/month |
| Shared By: | Dawn DuPriest on Jun 23, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Getting to the climb: head up the trail toward Wind Tower; The Bomb starts at the second groove to the right of the "Huge Block" (the base of Boulder Direct).
P1: belay from the ledge at the base of Wind Tower - setting up a ground anchor can be tricky here, and it's crowded! Head straight up the crack to the small roof; this roof is the hardest move on pitch 1, but it protects well. Once over the roof, climb the crack (with lots of face holds). The rest of this pitch feels more like 5.2.
At the belay ledge, the route makes a little "jog" up and left to the base of a chimney. Usually I belay from the top of P1, then belay everyone over to the base of the chimney, and start the second pitch there - it reduces rope drag and the rope rubbing on rocks and such.
Note, you can toprope P1 from this belay ledge.... There is a two bolt anchor, but it won't hurt bring your own gear and a 60m rope.
P2: shoot up the chimney - it narrows at the top so stay to the outside of it. Optionally you can climb out of the chimney and use the face next to it. For fans of stemming and counterpressure, this pitch is a real treat. Out of the chimney, it's a little run out until you get to the dead juniper tree - but the climbing is easy. Climb up to an alcove, and there are bolts above and to the right of the tree.
Descent: Two raps with a single 60m, or one full length rap if you have two 60m ropes. 2x50m and 2x55m will not reach the ledge at the base of Recon. I hung a single 50m down, and it made it to the baby tree 1/3 of the way up Recon's P1.
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