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Routes in Wind Tower - SW Face

Calypso Direct Start T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Across The River From Butt Hair T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Bomb, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Boulder Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Breezy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Calypso T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Calypso Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Day 444 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Erickson's Wide Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
G.Y. Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Governor's Climb, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Hard-Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I Did It My Way T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Jimmy Cliff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Left Out T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Lemmings T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My Own Way T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
No, Do it My Way T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raisin Bran T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rastaman Roof T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Recon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Reggae T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roofed Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Salvation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stagger T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Tagger T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tigger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tigger Plus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Variety T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Overhang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wind Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wind Tower Slab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, TR, 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 15,123 total, 75/month
Shared By: Dawn DuPriest on Jun 23, 2001 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Getting to the climb: head up the trail toward Wind Tower; The Bomb starts at the second groove to the right of the "Huge Block" (the base of Boulder Direct).

P1: belay from the ledge at the base of Wind Tower - setting up a ground anchor can be tricky here, and it's crowded! Head straight up the crack to the small roof; this roof is the hardest move on pitch 1, but it protects well. Once over the roof, climb the crack (with lots of face holds). The rest of this pitch feels more like 5.2.

At the belay ledge, the route makes a little "jog" up and left to the base of a chimney. Usually I belay from the top of P1, then belay everyone over to the base of the chimney, and start the second pitch there - it reduces rope drag and the rope rubbing on rocks and such.

Note, you can toprope P1 from this belay ledge.... There is a two bolt anchor, but it won't hurt bring your own gear and a 60m rope.

P2: shoot up the chimney - it narrows at the top so stay to the outside of it. Optionally you can climb out of the chimney and use the face next to it. For fans of stemming and counterpressure, this pitch is a real treat. Out of the chimney, it's a little run out until you get to the dead juniper tree - but the climbing is easy. Climb up to an alcove, and there are bolts above and to the right of the tree.

Descent: this can be done with two ropes from the bolts. 2x60m ropes are required for descent in a single two-rope rap. 2x50m and 2x55m will not reach the ledge at the base of Recon. I hung a single 50m down, and it made it to the baby tree 1/3 of the way up Recon's P1.

Protection

A standard rack - one or two large pieces will help at the first roof and in the chimney. - but not necessary, you can find places even in the chimney for small gear. The pro is excellent on P1, okay on P2.
michalm
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
Good downclimb for Calypso to Reggae. Also a good toprope for first-time climbers with no athleticism. Feb 22, 2017
-- Chris --
  5.4
-- Chris --  
  5.4
Fun climb! Spent some time in and out of the chimney on P2, nice stemming and a fun transition to the face. Some double length slings work great for slinging a couple of chockstones on P2, eliminating any need for large gear (I don't think I placed anything larger than a #1 BD cam?). And Steve Levin's Eldo guide does indeed list 3 more pitches after the second set of anchors (some 5.5, 5.2 and class 3/4 stretches I think?), but unless you're excited about standing atop Wind Tower, you're better off rappelling after P2 and climbing some of the other nearby routes on more solid rock. 60m rope got us from the P2 anchors to the P1 rap anchors with only a few feet to spare. Not sure a single 50m rope would make it. May 19, 2016
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
Yes. You can rap from the top of pitch 2 with one 60m rope and once more to the ground.... Jul 11, 2013
LuisC
Boulder
LuisC   Boulder
Levin's book (2013) lists 5 pitches for this route, the last 3 being basically a long scramble to make it to the summit. Comments on that?

Also, will 2 raps with 1 single 70m rope from the bolts at the top of P2 to the bolts at the top of P1 and then to the ground be ok?

Thanks! Jul 11, 2013
Ames Martin
Denver, Colorado
Ames Martin   Denver, Colorado
I have found this route to be excellent for people who maybe aren't as used to heights. It's solid enough to give a beginner enough confidence to get used to, and begin enjoying, being up high. It's also a great first trad lead. Nov 12, 2009
Good beginner route. Helmets are about as mandatory as a rope anywhere on this section of the rock.

There is a rap anchor at the top of this climb which is used for many of the climbs on the tower. If you must set up a top rope, please build in the crack to the right of the anchors or underneath the second pitch with an extension. Otherwise, a bunch of other parties will be waiting on you. Feb 8, 2009
Phill T
  5.4
Phill T  
  5.4
Fun slabby and jugalicious. Watch for rockfall from above on the belay ledge, a football sized rockbomb exploded 10 feet away while belaying for the 2nd pitch! Jun 6, 2008
Shawn Shannon
Everett, WA
  5.4
Shawn Shannon   Everett, WA
  5.4
A #2 Big Bro works perfect to protect the beginning.
I'm just excited, because I never get to use that thing! :-D Jun 7, 2007
Kevin Craig  
 
John, glad you enjoyed it, but folks should use the bolt anchor for rapping and stop using tree. One of the reasons for the bolt application and approval was to save the tree and reduce clutter/litter (slings on trees). There's no reason to continue using the tree now that the bolts are there. Apr 8, 2007
This was my first Eldo Canyon climb back on 3/19/07 and I have to tell ya it was a hoot. Used the tree as a rap anchor. Apr 6, 2007
Kevin Craig  
 
Note that there's a new 2-bolt rap anchor at the top of p1 just below the big mid-way ledge. This replaces the tree rap anchor that's been used to rap from the big ledge in the past. More info is on the main Wind Tower page. Apr 3, 2007
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
Scott Edlin   boulder, co
Please update route description: 2x60m ropes are required for descent in a single two-rope rap. 2x50m and 2x55m will not reach the ledge at the base of Recon. I hung a single 50m down and it made it to the baby tree 1/3 of the way up Recon P1. Jun 25, 2006
Danny
  5.4
Danny  
  5.4
I totally agree with the helmet thing. I wear a helmet at all times in Eldo. Furthermore, moto-cross gear would not be a bad idea at the Wind Tower. Mar 29, 2005
James Garnett
Bellingham, WA
James Garnett   Bellingham, WA
No offense Danny, but.... ``May want to consider a helmet?!'' Good GOD---if you're within 100 yards of the Wind Tower without a helmet already on, then you're just asking to die a senseless, random death. This area is a shooting gallery, especially with the hordes of new climbers. Do you REALLY want to be around an area with a bagillion loose rocks and covered with inexperienced climbers w/o a helmet on? No, I didn't think you did. Mar 26, 2005
Danny
  5.4
Danny  
  5.4
Climbed this one on May 1, 2004. Fun route, easy lead, good pro. The only problem with this climb is that the rap tree with the slings seems to be (from the traffic) the primary rap station to get down to the bottom. While I was climbing, we has lots of rocks and even a some gear dropped on us as climbers were rappeling. One may want to consider a helmet for this one. Jun 2, 2004
Kevin Coopman
  5.4
Kevin Coopman  
  5.4
Dam, this was a fun climb. If your wife or girlfriend does not climb, bring them on this route and they will be hooked! Bring your kids on this route, great fun and they will not get tired! Kills Flatiron climbing! May 31, 2004
A great route to take a climber on whom is looking for their first multipitch experience. Let the lesser experienced person lead the first pitch; after the small roof this is easy and well protected. I found the 2nd pitch to be a little more awkward, the best piece I found on that pitch was actually a 4 foot sling girth hitched around a chockstone. There is pro in the chimney but you don't really want to be in the chimney, stem it, stay on the outside, and run it out to the bolt anchors. For me the crux of the climb is actually getting to the tree with the slings for the second rap (a 60 M rope will just reach) without getting poked and prodded. Oct 27, 2003
James Garnett
Bellingham, WA
James Garnett   Bellingham, WA
There are three cracks to the right of the boulder: the one immediately to its right, the one in the middle of the face, and the one on the far right. The one on the middle is The Bomb; the one on the far right is Recon. The Bomb is easy, easy climbing. Rememer to stay left after you exit the widest part of the crack. Aug 6, 2003
pj
pj  
I'm pretty sure we started further right than what you describe - we were probably 20 feet (?) past the big boulder. After rapping p2 (the chimney) we traversed left to rap off the bolts that dropped us to the start of Calypso so I never even saw the anchor that is marked in the photo - I was just curious as to what the route that went to that anchor (that I incorrectly assumed were bolts) was called. I am hoping to spend a little more time in this area this summer so I'm working on my plan - last year it was more of a quick detour during our 'family' vacation.~pj May 8, 2003
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
 
The last time I was there the two dots near the small tree were just a bunch of slings (and a few rap rings) around the base of the tree. You'd pass it most closely doing p1 of West Overhang (which starts just to the right of the big boulder, and goes directly up the groove. Pitch 1 of the Bomb starts directly right of p1 of West Overhang, at the next obvious groove. (Of course, for the routes cross on the big ledge, so that the Bomb goes up the chimney on the left, and West Overhang goes through the roof on the right.)

Although I suspect when you were rapping off your route you probably used the slings around the tree. Are there now bolts there, or am I misreading your post? May 7, 2003
pj
pj  
Sorry I was unclear. The bolts at the top of P1 I refered to are on the photo above. I never saw them, because the route I climbed was to the right of that line (there is a guy in the photo at the base between the 2 routes). The 'overhang' was not much - just moving up and out of the small dihedral. I was asking if the unmarked line (see picture above) with the anchor (2 white dots) at the top of what would be P1 was The Bomb or Recon or something else, so I could figure out what we were climbing on. May 7, 2003
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
 
That sounds like Recon. I don't really recall anything like an overhang on p1 of the Bomb. Nor do I remember seeing bolts anywhere on the big ledge between where p2 of the Bomb and p2 of West Overhang start. Is this where you saw them? May 7, 2003
Okay, I'm a little confused - I climbed a route here last year I thought was 'The Bomb', but after reading some of the comments, now I don't know! We started to the RIGHT of the guy in the photo (at the base), did a little overhang thing about 20 feet up then headed to a big ledge. Traversed (okay, walked) left to a chimney that leads to a tree and a rap station (labeled in the upper right of the photo). It was a blast, because I was climbing with my brother who comes from sea-level, has never climbed anything before, and made his own climbing shoes by gluing Stealth rubber to some old boxing boots! Was this The Bomb? Is it the same as Recon? What route has the bolts at the top of P1?~pj May 6, 2003
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
 
Almost a two star route, if only because of the relative dearth of novice routes (as well as those involving chimney technique) in Eldo. But one star is defined as "Not bad", and in my view such a description fits the bill here. Apr 9, 2003
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
Hey Tom, I agree with you on that note of yours. The rock above the second anchors is REALLY rotten. I led about 140' of that before I decided to just get out of there... It was getting pretty dark too... An easy double rope rappel from the two anchors at the top, walk/crawl 60' climbers' left to the anchors of Calypso and double rope that one too. We had two 50 m ropes. Good times. Great lead for a learner. Creative pro though. Nov 20, 2002
I really enjoyed the "slabby" section on pitch two just before the rap station. Sep 16, 2002
Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
Tom Anderson-Brown   Madison, WI
This was my first multipitch lead climb. When we did it, we didn't know it was only 2 pitches. We climbed up and left from the top of P2 to the top of Wind Tower. Beware of this extension of the climb, the rock isn't very solid. Mar 22, 2002