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All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Wind Tower > Wind Tower - SW Face

My Own Way

5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British X


 Avg: 1 from 2 votes

Routes in Wind Tower - SW Face

Across The River From Butt Hair T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Bomb, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Boulder Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Breezy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Calypso T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Calypso Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calypso Direct Start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Day 444 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Erickson's Wide Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
G.Y. Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Governor's Climb, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Hard-Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I Did It My Way T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Jimmy Cliff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Left Out T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Lemmings T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
My Own Way T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
No, Do it My Way T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raisin Bran T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rastaman Roof T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Recon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Reggae T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roofed Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Salvation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stagger T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Tagger T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tigger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tigger Plus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Variety T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Overhang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wind Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wind Tower Slab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
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Type: Trad, TR
FA: Unknown. FFA: T. Bubb, 12/8/01 (?)
Page Views: 228 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Find the first pitch of Tagger via the route description on the page for that route. This variation was done on-sight lead. Judging by what had to be cleaned from it, it had not been lead prior.

Look below the left-hand edge of the Tagger roof, between the standard start of Tagger and 'Across The River From Butt Hair.' From this position, 'My Own Way' climbs the blunt arete directly, without deviating to either side. This arete intersects the roof on pitch-1 of Tagger at its left-hand side. Pull the roof and follow easy cracks to the anchors above P1 of Tagger. This is only about 30' of independent climbing.

Like the nearby 'I Did It My Way,' this line is not very independent and is not very noteworthy, but for the mind game of committing to the small holds on little or no gear.

Protection

A light standard rack, wherever you can get it in. This can be TR'd from anchors above P1 of Tagger.

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The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the location of the new bolted rappel anchor.
The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing t…
 8

4 Comments

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Anonymous Coward
Anonymous Coward  
I think it is a bit presumptuous to claim this as a first ascent, Tony. This line has probably been soloed dozens of times as far back as the 70s. Certainly Derek did it, and probably immediately forgot about it. I think it may make better sense to credit this (and all other minor, insignificant variations that are being done these days in Eldorado) to "unknown", rather than fall into the pit of "Rossiteritis", where anything not previously credited gets Richard's (or in this case, your) name attributed to it. A little too much ego-stroking going on here. Jun 10, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Really? As far as anyone top-roping it, I don't know, maybe someone did and things stayed under foot and finger despite the pressure. Considering the fractured chips I picked up and tossed off of the edges I ended up using for feet, I doubt anyone would have lead or soloed over what I was on because you'd toss stuff like that off instead of stand on it if a fall meant certain injury.
I considered a prior lead by anyone who weighed more than 40 lbs somewhat unlikely. The little side-pulls I used required similar treatment. As I said in the post: "Judging by what had to be cleaned from it, it had not been lead prior."

As far as the matter of ego-stroking goes, you've made a big fundamental attribution error. How is leading a 5.10 an ego-stroke? I just filled in the info as best as I had and if someone has a correction, I'd hope they'd post it.

One could say that it takes a lot of ego to think you can read my mind and know my motivation, couldn't they? When I see an anonymous comment that comes off as a "That can't be 'cause everything has been done already" I'm probably going to make some assumptions of my own. "So-and-so probably did it and forgot about it" is pretty weak. "Well, the 4 of us used to hang a TR on those pitches and see how many variations he could do of each one for the heck of it and so I bet we'd done that too." would be a better case. Maybe you're not a presumptuous individual (whoever you are) but this post makes you look like one. Jun 10, 2002
Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
Joe Huggins   Grand Junction
Just a couple of things to add here. You "anonymous coward" guys have got to stop being so lazy/shit disturbing and sign your names. If you can't own up to your BS, keep it to yourselves. As for the likelihood of Derek having done this, don't count on it. Did you know him? And Tony, a number of us (I don't remember who) toproped this GENERAL line sometime in 80-82. I wouldn't have wanted to lead it though. Oct 4, 2002
Mike Robinson
Grand Junction, CO
 
Mike Robinson   Grand Junction, CO
 
Thanks Again Tony for letting me have two Ticks for the price of One! Apr 4, 2007

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