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Across The River From Butt Hair
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2 from 56
votes
Routes in Wind Tower - SW Face
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Across The River From Butt Hair T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bomb, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Boulder Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Breezy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Calypso T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Calypso Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Calypso Direct Start T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Day 444 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Erickson's Wide Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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G.Y. Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Governor's Climb, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Hard-Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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I Did It My Way T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Jimmy Cliff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Left Out T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Lemmings T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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My Own Way T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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No, Do It My Way T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Raisin Bran T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Rastaman Roof T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Recon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Reggae T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roofed Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Salvation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stagger T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Tagger T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tigger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Tigger Plus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown Left of West Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Variety T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Overhang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wind Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wind Tower Slab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Duncan Ferguson, 1973 |
| Page Views: | 4,573 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 30, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Just to the left of roof on the the famous Tagger route a slab meets a slight overhang low on the face to form a slightly open-book dihedral with a thin crack. Start up this crack or up the slab to the right to reach a thin crack and flake on the vertical face above. This feature lies almost immediately left of the Tagger roof itself.
Place a few thin nuts cams or sliders and then work up onto the top of the flake and pull onto the slab (5.8+), using good holds that are not obvious from below. This seam and flake appears in the attached picture as a faint line above the first 'g' in the superimposed name Tagger. People below 5'6" might find this more difficult, but still reasonable. Move up onto the slab and either move right to Tagger's crack (above the roof) or stay on-route and run for the tree on little or no protection (5.7). Belay at the fixed rap at the tree.
Either rap from the good fixed anchors or finish the route by moving up and right over easy terrain about 40 feet to a crack/seam through a bulge. Place a few good thin pieces and use small holds to pull through the routes crux (5.9) to another easy slab which becomes a dihedral (5.5)
Variation I: upon reaching the final dihedral, move left under it and pull though a roof (5.9). This adds some difficulty to the route, but not much more quality.
Variation II: Upon reaching the final dihedral, move far left, traversing the entire massive roof (reversing the Tagger Escape, 5.7) and move down to the belay below the Tagger Roof (3rd pitch) and continue as for Tagger. This is a good way to do Tagger when a large group has Pitch 1 clogged with a line of top-ropers.
Place a few thin nuts cams or sliders and then work up onto the top of the flake and pull onto the slab (5.8+), using good holds that are not obvious from below. This seam and flake appears in the attached picture as a faint line above the first 'g' in the superimposed name Tagger. People below 5'6" might find this more difficult, but still reasonable. Move up onto the slab and either move right to Tagger's crack (above the roof) or stay on-route and run for the tree on little or no protection (5.7). Belay at the fixed rap at the tree.
Either rap from the good fixed anchors or finish the route by moving up and right over easy terrain about 40 feet to a crack/seam through a bulge. Place a few good thin pieces and use small holds to pull through the routes crux (5.9) to another easy slab which becomes a dihedral (5.5)
Variation I: upon reaching the final dihedral, move left under it and pull though a roof (5.9). This adds some difficulty to the route, but not much more quality.
Variation II: Upon reaching the final dihedral, move far left, traversing the entire massive roof (reversing the Tagger Escape, 5.7) and move down to the belay below the Tagger Roof (3rd pitch) and continue as for Tagger. This is a good way to do Tagger when a large group has Pitch 1 clogged with a line of top-ropers.
Protection
The protection is so-so at the pitch 1-crux (8+), with some medium-to-small nuts or offsets below. Slider nuts might be of some use, but I haven't tried. There is some runout on the face above the overhang, but the climbing is easier and can be protected by moving over to Tagger, above the roof. The second pitch also protects well on nuts and offsets. The first pitch, after doing it once to learn it, becomes one of the nicer solos at the base of the Wind Ridge.
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