Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,567 total · 35/month
Shared By: Jeremy Gilbert on May 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


130 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Start at the outside left edge of the big block that leans against the wall to the right of the Calypso start. Belay at the top of the block or continue up an easy fourth class groove to mid-face and belay (we did this using a 60m rope) From mid-face belay, climb up to a slot (5.5 crux) and finish beneath the natural arch. Descend along the rotten ledge to the left or rappel from anchors that lie 20 ft. to south to the mid-face ledge. From here, downclimb easy rock to a tree that you can rap from, finishing to the opposite side of the big block from where you started. Enjoy!!

Protection

Standard rack with some long runners.
Try to avoid getting lost in the grass and bushes on this one. Do not step on the bird nests, if possible. May 1, 2002
I've combined this route with Reggae my last two times in the Canyon. You can do this as one pitch with a 60-meter rope. Since the bottom is pretty easy, you can also just run the rope behind the flake at the top of Reggae and downclimb to the rappel anchor while your partner climbs the lower part of the route. You are both on a toprope here, so this is pretty safe. It makes doing this very fast and efficient and lots of fun.

This also avoids the traffic jams that are ever present on Calypso. May 1, 2002
If you're trying to squeeze one more easy pitch in before dark, climb the boulder to the crack and go partway up, but move left onto the well featured face before you get to the ledge. follow the right edge of a big flake to a point on the ledge six feet right of the rap bolts on calypso. rap right back down to the uphill side of the boulder with a 60m rope. just make sure no one is headed to or already on the rap anchor before you start and tie knots in the ends of your rap rope.-s May 26, 2005
Buff Johnson
  5.5
Buff Johnson  
  5.5
I combine the 2nd pitch of this climb with a 5.5 route to the right of the big boulder (when I am not going to be in the way). Makes for a better 2 pitch outing for 5.5 climbing. The 2nd pitch is pretty fun, and does get overlooked as compared to Calypso & Reggae. Jan 23, 2006
Jo Holloway  
 
The second pitch is great for a beginning leader. When you are at the top of this route, keep an eye out for a couple of small patches of poison ivy just below the arch. Jun 26, 2006
I climbed this route yesterday, and had a couple of hornets watching me on the second pitch. I didn't see a nest, and my follower didn't see them at all, but figured I'd put the word out. May 21, 2008
Bob Brockwehl
Golden, CO
Bob Brockwehl   Golden, CO
The standard start up the face of the boulder does not seem safe to me. The flakes are hollow-sounding and according to my belayer, did not seem to be attached at the bottom. I like the alternative suggested by Buff Johnson (that sounds like the first pitch of West Overhang). I also agree with Bill Wright: the first pitch is the best approach to Reggae, and if better known, would take a lot of the pressure off P1 of Calypso. Jul 26, 2009
Tommy F
Golden, CO
Tommy F   Golden, CO
Be careful of a big loose block on the ledge before the arch! Also can continue up to the summit after the 2nd pitch and still keep it at low 5th class by angling up and left. Aug 16, 2016
The "first pitch" of this route up the slabby boulder is basically a solo. My partner backed off because of this, so plan accordingly. Dec 6, 2016
Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
 
Larry Shaw   Boulder, CO
 
Climbed all three pitches into one with a 70m. Fun, easy climb. Aug 15, 2017