Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Kevin Donald, 1980.
Page Views: 20,724 total · 89/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 with improvements by Carl Schaefer
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is commonly rated 5.8, but the crux is short and it is not really any harder than The Bastille Crack.

Start from the belay above the first pitch of Calypso. Step right a few feet, then head up the obvious dihedral. Finish over a tricky rock into a ledge with a large rock resting over it.

You can continue to the summit or traverse the strata to the left to the walkoff of Wind Ridge. The easiest exit is to downclimb (exposed & mostly unprotectable) the ledge to the right, to two bolts on P2 of The Bomb to rappel.

If you have a 60 or 70m rope, you can rap 90' from The Bomb's P2 anchor, rap from The Bomb's P1 anchor.

If you rap with a 50m rope, there are a few choices: 1) you can downclimb 15 feet to a tree with slings & another 80 feet to the ground from here; 2) you can traverse to the Calypso anchor with a 30m rap to the ground or 25m rap to the top of the boulder, from which you can downclimb; or 3) you can downlead Boulder Direct or Recon.

Protection

Standard rack. Fixed pro may exist on the route.

Photos