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Rastaman Roof

5.9+, Trad,  Avg: 2.1 from 19 votes
FA: R. [Rossiter], 1981 (solo)
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Wind Tower > Wind Tower - SW Face
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Refer to the directions to Reggae. This route is a significant variation of Reggae, in that it has 40' of independent climbing, skips the crux of Reggae, and gives one of a harder an much different nature.

After starting up Reggae and going about 40 or so feet, Reggae starts to get more vertical and difficult. In the attached picture, this is [almost] due right of the climber on Reggae. At this point, move up and right to a right-leaning crack system. A little gear will be possible there, but not a lot, so protect well before you leave the initial dihedral. [The] moves are not difficult until you reach the roof. Move up and right in the crack to head for the apex of the obvious roof above. An eye-of the needle can be threaded by the leader, but this is not your destination.

Instead, get to the apex of the roof, just left of the left-facing dihedral at its side. Hand-jam out on strenous but solid moves though the roof and over the top of the blocks which form it.

Go down and right to belay before taking [the] scramble off as for Reggae.

Protection

The protection is reasonable. If approaching from Calypso-to-Reggae, a set of stoppers and a set of cams should do. Crux pro for Rastaman Roof (in the roof) is 2-3" cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the location of the new bolted rappel anchor.
[Hide Photo] The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the location of the new bolted rappel anchor.
Kat A. pulling over the lip of the Rastaman Roof.
[Hide Photo] Kat A. pulling over the lip of the Rastaman Roof.
Kat A. finds the jug over the Rastaman Roof and readies herself to pull through.
[Hide Photo] Kat A. finds the jug over the Rastaman Roof and readies herself to pull through.
Tony Bubb sews it up on the RastaMan Roof variation (5.9+) of Reggae, on the Wind Tower of Eldo. Photo by Joseffa Meir, 2002.
[Hide Photo] Tony Bubb sews it up on the RastaMan Roof variation (5.9+) of Reggae, on the Wind Tower of Eldo. Photo by Joseffa Meir, 2002.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Clint Locks
Boulder
[Hide Comment] A nice variation to Reggae, a classic in its own right. The pro IS a bit thin from the Reggae dihedral out on the slab, but the climbing is pretty moderate. Do your best to protect your second; the swing would be a bummer there. The pro is great under the roof and it's a very airy and strenous (albeit short) crux!

A short downclimb gets you to the double bolt rap anchors in an alcove. Two raps on a 60 meter line. Jul 16, 2003
Brent Roaten
Anchorage, AK
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Linked this route with Boulder Direct yesterday rather than Reggae. Very well protected crux with solid hand jams above the roof. Apr 27, 2006
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Super fun couple of moves, if only it was longer! Seemed too easy to warrant the dreaded 5.9+ grade, but this may be accurate for those with a shorter reach. I was able to grab/jam the crack at the lip, pull up, then latch on to the jug further up and pull over. Mar 4, 2014
Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I agree with Eric, probably Eldo 5.9, and I'm short. It's really a one move wonder with bomber cams in the crux. Fun one move though. I approached from directly below after rapping down to the ledge after doing Reggae. Basically a walk up till the crux. Mar 18, 2017
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] I think the roof shifted - the crux is now red Camalots and thinner. Seems harder. Maybe I had a high gravity day and too much drag (ran Wind Tower Slab into it for a single 60m pitch), but my partner who leads 5.10-5.11 regularly took a few hangs following... so I think it changed.
Seems stable though - that massive car-sized rock just settled an inch, I guess. May 20, 2017
Dr. VARMENT
Boulder, Colorado
[Hide Comment] 5.9 is spot on. One or two move wonder, just lock off and get a high foot. Took bomber #1 BDs, certainly fun...maybe more fun would be crawling through the hole underneath the roof. Oct 16, 2017