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Wind Tower - SW Face

Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Wind Tower
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This popular rock can be divided in character into its south and southwest face. The SW face has some of the most frequently climbed routes in Eldorado Canyon and is probably the best area in Eldorado Canyon for those seeking lower end difficulty climbing. The rock is stellar for the first two pitches of climbs on this face. Above this the rock has seen less traffic and still has loose rock for the unsuspecting climber.

Famous climbers have been climbing this rock since the early 1950s. On occasion, you may find yourself face-to-face with a legendary climber soloing on by you as enjoy this rock.

Ultra-classics such as Calypso, 5.6 and Wind Ridge, 5.6 are great for beginners but often have long queues, please be patient. Pitch 3 of Wind Ridge has one of the most interesting roofs in all of Eldorado Canyon. Other good lines include Breezy, 5.4; The Bomb, 5.4; Boulder Direct, 5.5; the irascible Tigger, 5.5; Recon, 5.6; Reggae, 5.8; Wind Tower Slab, 5.9 TR; the slippery Tagger, 5.10b/c; and the impressive Salvation, 5.12a/b s.

Note, that according to Park statistics, Calypso is one of the most hazardous routes in the park, so protect it well.

Getting There

The approach takes an arduous 5 min. from the parking lot. Take the bridge across S. Boulder Creek, then take the marked path up to the wall. Please stay on the path since it is well built to minimize erosion and rock slide.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 1
Day 444
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Variety
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 313
Breezy
Trad 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
 4
Erickson's Wide Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 898
Wind Ridge
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 37
Tigger Plus
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 245
Tigger
Trad 3 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
 48
Across The River From Butt Hair
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
 2
My Own Way
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
No, Do it My Way
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 8
I Did It My Way
Trad, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 358
Tagger
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 12
Roofed Out
Trad 2 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
 1
Stagger
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
The G.Y. Dihedral
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Salvation
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 123
Calypso Direct
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 868
Calypso
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
 2
Jimmy Cliff
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 494
Reggae
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 19
Rastaman Roof
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
 28
Wind Tower Slab
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 51
Calypso Direct Start
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 133
Boulder Direct
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 308
The Bomb
Trad, TR 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
 23
Governor's Climb, The
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 201
Recon
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 261
West Overhang
Trad 2 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 45
Lemmings
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 18
Hard-Up
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 1
Raisin Bran
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
 16
Left Out
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Day 444
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Variety
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Breezy
 313
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Erickson's Wide Crack
 4
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Wind Ridge
 898
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Tigger Plus
 37
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Tigger
 245
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Across The River From Butt…
 48
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
My Own Way
 2
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X Trad, TR
No, Do it My Way
 1
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
I Did It My Way
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, TR
Tagger
 358
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Roofed Out
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 2 pitches
Stagger
 1
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R Trad
The G.Y. Dihedral
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Salvation
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Calypso Direct
 123
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Calypso
 868
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Jimmy Cliff
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X Trad
Reggae
 494
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Rastaman Roof
 19
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Wind Tower Slab
 28
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X Trad, TR
Calypso Direct Start
 51
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Boulder Direct
 133
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
The Bomb
 308
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR 2 pitches
Governor's Climb, The
 23
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R Trad
Recon
 201
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
West Overhang
 261
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Lemmings
 45
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Hard-Up
 18
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Raisin Bran
 1
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Left Out
 16
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the location of the new bolted rappel anchor.
[Hide Photo] The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the location of the new bolted rappel anchor.
Wind Tower, with climbers visible on P1 & P2 of Calypso.
[Hide Photo] Wind Tower, with climbers visible on P1 & P2 of Calypso.
Wind Tower descents.  You can walk off from the top of the second pitch of Wind Ridge or Breezy.  From the summit, traverse to the notch and do a single-rope rappel to the descent trail.
[Hide Photo] Wind Tower descents. You can walk off from the top of the second pitch of Wind Ridge or Breezy. From the summit, traverse to the notch and do a single-rope rappel to the descent trail.
Wind Tower from the bridge.
[Hide Photo] Wind Tower from the bridge.
The Wind Tower SW face from the top of the Whale's Tail. A fairly large photo that you can zoom in on.<br>
<br>
Photo: Steve Nelson.
[Hide Photo] The Wind Tower SW face from the top of the Whale's Tail. A fairly large photo that you can zoom in on. Photo: Steve Nelson.
SW Face of the Wind Tower from the top of the Whale's Tail.
[Hide Photo] SW Face of the Wind Tower from the top of the Whale's Tail.
Marie topping out on Recon.
[Hide Photo] Marie topping out on Recon.
Summit view looking toward upper Rotwand Wall.
[Hide Photo] Summit view looking toward upper Rotwand Wall.
Wind Tower (March, 2010).
[Hide Photo] Wind Tower (March, 2010).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
[Hide Comment] Anybody happen to know what that easy little warm up slot to the right of The Bomb is??? I can't find beta on it anywhere. I'd give it a 5.3 or 5.4... Done it twice to just get warmed up and play around. Kinda fun, but short and easy. Set up the belay on the tiny evergreen to the right of the first Bomb rap. Last two times I did it I scooted climber left to Calypso's pins and rapped from there. Any info, let me know!!! Thanks.~WM Apr 11, 2003
Shawn Shannon
South Ogden
[Hide Comment] GET THE BETA ON YOUR DECENT ROUTE or it's just a pain in the ass.

If you climb to the top of Wind Tower instead of taking the exit trail, do yourself a favor and take the time to get the beta on the decent (repell bolts) for your route!! We went half-hearted to the top thinking we'll just find our way down when we get there, everyone had told us that "they're there." We didn't immediately find a way down and thought we'd cruise down the slabs. It took us longer to get down than up. We did one repel plus a mini one. We didn't feel as bad about it after we noticed quite a few sets of slings littering the trees. :) Apr 28, 2003
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] In that case.... after topping out on the wind tower, travel north for approximately 200 yards from the summit point. Travel is typically easiest on the E side of the ridge within ~50 yards of the ridgeline (it varies). Get to an obvious rotton notch that's about 10-15 feet wide. The bolts face north, are in this notch, and are set up to allow a good rappell back down to the visible descent trail 60 feet below. Apr 29, 2003
[Hide Comment] I usually abhor such crowded routes and have gotten back to the Flatirons after years of Eldo but who doesn't love this one? At one time this was said to be the most travelled route in the state. Can anyone comment that it still is? Jun 12, 2004
Luis Barandiaran
Longmont, CO
[Hide Comment] We did the three pitches up Wind Ridge today... the third pitch is definitely worth doing. Roof feels like 5.6. Jug city after that. From the summit, the best to do for [descent] is to downclimb towards the north until you run across a thick old cable strung across the slabs. This runs for 40 or 50 feet. From there, don't head straight up the notch, but continue 20 feet or so to the next one. On the West facing side there's two [vertically] stacked rappel bolts. It's an easy single rope rappel to the decent trail. Enjoy... I sure did! Jul 16, 2005
Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
[Hide Comment] ACE: Rap bolt upgrade occurred on 11/15/2013.
Removed a 3/8" x 2.5" plated Rawl with Metolius Fat hanger.
Installed a 1/2" x 4.5" SS Rawl with SS double ring hanger.
(The second bolt was already a SS glue-in.) Nov 15, 2013