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Trad, 4 pitches,
Avg: 3.6 from 27
FA: L. Kor, Rick Horn 1961. FFA: Pat Ament, Richard Smith, Tom R
> Eldorado Canyon SP
> Redgarden Wall
> Redgarden - Tower One
Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This is a combination of the first two pitches of Super Slab, and the second two of Art's Spar. The first pitch is a .10c undercling flake with decent holds, yet still pumpy climbing. Above the pitch traverses left along a line of pins over nebulous terrain. The second and third pitches can be combined with a two hundred foot rope to a belay at the base of a famous offwidth called Grand Giraffe. The last pitch is the crux, it is rated .10c in most guidebooks, but it is possibly a full grade harder now. A local climber informed me a hold has broken in the crack that now makes the move much harder than .10c. The line is obvious, jam out a completely horizontal 6' roof. This is a very intimidating and exposed crux. The hardest part is making a long move to the lip will completely horizontal. This section really surprised me (it spit me off), make no mistake it is solid 5.11, I thought it was a full grade harder than Tagger (.10c) which is a similar climb. There is an easier option to the left called Electric Aunt Jemima that goes at .10c, although the pro looks a little friable (#0 TCUs?). The roof on Super Spar is well protected at least.
Bring a standard rack. A bunch of pins protect the first pitch.