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Routes in Rincon - L of Center Route

Aerial Bondage T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Aerial Book T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Aero-Book T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Aerohead T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aeronaut T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Aerospace T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arete Bandit T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Athletic Supporter T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bachar Yer Aryan T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bat's Ass Dihedral T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brevitata T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Climb Of The Century T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cuban Bluegrass T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Emerald City T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Evictor, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Faulty Logic T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Final Eviction (aka Freeline), The T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Fraid Line T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Kaisho T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Kangaroo Tail T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Leisure Time Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Must'a Been High T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
N.I.C T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Over and Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over the Hill T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scenic Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Surf's Up T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Trident T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ventura Highway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wendego T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Windy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FFA: Jim Belcer and Topher Donahue, 2002
Page Views: 7,602 total, 64/month
Shared By: Bart Paull on Apr 5, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is another great route on a wall already stacked with classics. While none of its cruxes are super hard, the pump and fear factor on this route are both rather sizeable. Numerous cruxes culminate with an awkward 12- reach move with a #2 RP below one's feet. A bit of a spicy meatball....

Location

Start left of Center Route as for Surf's Up, then break right underneath a roof with good holds to stem on for the feet. Get some gear, then make a reachy-ish move to a spiky undercling. From here, several more mini-cruxes culminate with an exciting reach for a good hold ... traverse left into the last few feet of Surf's Up and use the Surf's Up two piton anchor. A yellow Alien and a large nut (BD #10 or so) back this up well.

Protection

Stick clip two fixed pitons to start, then mainly small nuts (RPs useful) and a few small cams along with a hand-sized piece or two. Also, one fixed Toucan piton.
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.13a
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.13a
I found a great #3 hand placed Pecker before the run-out that makes this PG. You don't need the #1 stopper doing it this way. Feb 9, 2017
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
vimeo.com/31147587 Jun 1, 2012