Avg: 3.8 from 217 votes
Trad, 3 pitches
|FA:||Larry and Roger Dalke, 1965. FFA: Chris Reveley, Scott Woodruff|
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|Shared By:||David Benson on May 19, 2001|
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Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Start from the top of a large flat boulder, about 25' to the left of Rincon. The start is an intimidating left facing corner. However the start is actually pretty easy (9) with good holds and rests above.
Continue in the right facing corner (yes, it changes) up under a large roof. There's a fixed pin under the roof of reasonable quality, but other gear is easy to place. Move up and traverse left around the corner below the roof. It is possible to place a #2 Camalot in the pod before you pull out of the roof.
The crux is getting situated after pulling out of the roof. Placing gear here is slightly awkward, but small/med nuts are available.
Step right over the roof and continue up the shallow right facing dihedral. 10-12 feet of excellent climbing (mid 10) before the difficulties ease somewhat. Two or three fixed pins of marginal quality (and generally good gear is nearby) are in the upper part of this dihedral before the broken band. Traverse left about 8' to a two bolt anchor.
From the 1st anchor you can either top rope Evictor (12c/d), rappel or continue.
Per Bryson Slothower:
Pitch 2 starts with a tricky 10b move over a bulge above the belay and continues up a right-facing dihedral with raspberry bushes for a 100 feet to a comfortable belay ledge. Protect early on this pitch to avoid landing in your belayers lap and go in August for the best raspberries.
Pitch 3 cuts left on jugs up and around the corner to a slab (8+). Continue up the slab passing a band of loose rotten rock (5.8S) and belay on the large walk off ledge. Walk off to the left past the finish of Over The Hill.