Type: Trad, 3 pitches Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Larry and Roger Dalke, 1965. FFA: Chris Reveley, Scott Woodruff
Page Views: 14,329 total · 63/month
Shared By: David Benson on May 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Note: I've only climbed the first pitch to the bolted anchors.

Start from the top of a large flat boulder, about 25' to the left of Rincon. The start is an intimidating left facing corner. However the start is actually pretty easy (9) with good holds and rests above.

Continue in the right facing corner (yes, it changes) up under a large roof. There's a fixed pin under the roof of reasonable quality, but other gear is easy to place. Move up and traverse left around the corner below the roof. It is possible to place a #2 Camalot in the pod before you pull out of the roof.

The crux is getting situated after pulling out of the roof. Placing gear here is slightly awkward, but small/med nuts are available.

Step right over the roof and continue up the shallow right facing dihedral. 10-12 feet of excellent climbing (mid 10) before the difficulties ease somewhat. Two or three fixed pins of marginal quality (and generally good gear is nearby) are in the upper part of this dihedral before the broken band. Traverse left about 8' to a two bolt anchor.

From the 1st anchor you can either top rope Evictor (12c/d), rappel or continue.

Per Bryson Slothower:

Pitch 2 starts with a tricky 10b move over a bulge above the belay and continues up a right-facing dihedral with raspberry bushes for a 100 feet to a comfortable belay ledge. Protect early on this pitch to avoid landing in your belayers lap and go in August for the best raspberries.

Pitch 3 cuts left on jugs up and around the corner to a slab (8+). Continue up the slab passing a band of loose rotten rock (5.8S) and belay on the large walk off ledge. Walk off to the left past the finish of Over The Hill.

Protection

Single set of cams to #2 Camalot, nuts. Opening moves can be protected with a #4 Camalot or #4 Friend (slightly small).

Wasp Alert

There have been in the crack where Evictor pulls away from Center Route.

Photos