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Routes in Rincon - Center Route & R

Another Pipeline Bonecrusher T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Camouflage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Center Route T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Concentric T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Counterstroke T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Five-Eight Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Five-Ten Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Front Side Lip Smack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Green Room, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Killing Fields, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Mind Over Matter T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Neato T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
On the Crest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Outer Limbits T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Point Break T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Reveley-Hunter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rincon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rincon Dink T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Rincon Light T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rinodina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Spicoli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Toprope Left of Spicoli TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warp Riders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 3 pitches Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Larry and Roger Dalke, 1965. FFA: Chris Reveley, Scott Woodruff
Page Views: 12,023 total · 59/month
Shared By: David Benson on May 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Note: I've only climbed the first pitch to the bolted anchors.

Start from the top of a large flat boulder, about 25' to the left of Rincon. The start is an intimidating left facing corner. However the start is actually pretty easy (9) with good holds and rests above.

Continue in the right facing corner (yes, it changes) up under a large roof. There's a fixed pin under the roof of reasonable quality, but other gear is easy to place. Move up and traverse left around the corner below the roof. It is possible to place a #2 Camalot in the pod before you pull out of the roof.

The crux is getting situated after pulling out of the roof. Placing gear here is slightly awkward, but small/med nuts are available.

Step right over the roof and continue up the shallow right facing dihedral. 10-12 feet of excellent climbing (mid 10) before the difficulties ease somewhat. Two or three fixed pins of marginal quality (and generally good gear is nearby) are in the upper part of this dihedral before the broken band. Traverse left about 8' to a two bolt anchor.

From the 1st anchor you can either top rope Evictor (12c/d), rappel or continue.

Per Bryson Slothower:

Pitch 2 starts with a tricky 10b move over a bulge above the belay and continues up a right-facing dihedral with raspberry bushes for a 100 feet to a comfortable belay ledge. Protect early on this pitch to avoid landing in your belayers lap and go in August for the best raspberries.

Pitch 3 cuts left on jugs up and around the corner to a slab (8+). Continue up the slab passing a band of loose rotten rock (5.8S) and belay on the large walk off ledge. Walk off to the left past the finish of Over The Hill.

Protection

Single set of cams to #2 Camalot, nuts. Opening moves can be protected with a #4 Camalot or #4 Friend (slightly small).
D. Snyder
Golden, CO
  5.11b
D. Snyder   Golden, CO
  5.11b
Got schooled on this today. Pumpy. It feels to me that the individual moves are not harder than hard 10, but... there are many steep moves stacked on top of one another into, through, and above the roof for 10 or so feet. Will be back. Protects brilliantly with small nuts and a few cams. Mar 21, 2017
Buster Jesik
Allenspark, CO
Buster Jesik   Allenspark, CO
Great route, this thing eats stoppers like crazy. I placed a #3 down low, a purple tcu in a horizontal below the roof, and a 0.75 after the crux, the rest were nuts and fixed pins. Apr 6, 2010
Abram Herman
Grand Junction, CO
  5.11b
Abram Herman   Grand Junction, CO
  5.11b
Opening moves can easily be protected with a #3 Camalot instead of a #4. Awesome climb!! I didn't think this was much easier than Climb of the Century, but that's probably mostly due to my lack of crack skills.

EDIT: climbed this again several years later, definitely easier than COTC. Apr 4, 2010
Neil Wachowski
Fort Collins, CO
Neil Wachowski   Fort Collins, CO
Just thought I'd add that, after the initial moves, P2 is 5.8-ish and protects very well Apr 27, 2009
justin dubois
Estes Park
justin dubois   Estes Park
I'd say it's a "first come, first serve" situation up there Adam. There are plenty of other routes on Rincon and if those dudes want to bumble thier way up it, then you'll just have to go huck laps some other day.I'll agree that it is frustrating when it happens, but we've all paid our dues.

cheers. Oct 31, 2005
XOG
XOG  
Took a 15 footer on this back in the mid 90's. Breathing a sigh of relief at my clean fall, I looked up and saw spaghetti rope above me. Moving at my second fastest speed ever (the fastest being falling into 34 degree water while windsurfing), I clipped a nearby pin relic at the speed of light. The rope was my (new) partner's - she told me she'd stored it in a car in Alaska for 1 year and a half. Nice. Feb 23, 2005
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b
I've looked at this for a couple of years. If you're leading anywhere near this range, don't wait too long, go do it. My impressions:* The gear is much better than it looks.* The 5.9 moves off the ground were harder than they look. BIg hands, but you tip to the right.* The climbing to the ceiling was much easier than it looks.* Exiting left at the ceiling was easy for me, about low 10. A short reach might make it much harder to get the initially jug.* The stance after the ceiling was much worse than I expected. Perhaps long arms would make the undercling comfy (calling Ken Heiser). I eventually was able to settle down a bit here.* The move starting the finger crack was very hard for me. Thin fingers or very long reach would help. William McGhee says "think layback". I thought layback but coudln't figure anything out that would work.* The rest is pumpy with some bad feet. Went too high at first before traversing left. Feb 22, 2005
I've done both second pitch possibilities. I thought the left was the more dificult and more interesting of the two. However I also remember the fixed andchor at the top of this pitch being a couple of less than inspiring pitons. Any word on the current status of that anchor? Aug 18, 2004
Also fun if you're breaking into 5.11a. Feb 25, 2004
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
 
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
 
FUN FUN FUN FUN FUN! It may seem quite the dicey lead, but if you're looking to break on into .11b, definitely give this a shot! Gear is great though it looks bad from the ground and the moves are wonderfully technical.

Roof beta...Beware!!!Drop your left foot back to the left wall onto a smaller ledge, smear your right on up as far as needed to reach the 'horn' on the top of the arete/roof junction to your left. Double up for hands on that one and just swing your legs around the arete to the left. Great moves. After that, just think lieback and give the crux a throw!

~Wm Feb 25, 2004
Joe Collins
  5.11b
Joe Collins  
  5.11b
Harder than your average Eldo 11a Apr 14, 2003
If you don't want to deal with the semi-hanging belay at the top of the first pitch, with a 60-meter rope you can combine the first two pitches. This makes turning the bulge at the start of the second pitch a bit tougher of course - due to drag and rope weight. Jul 1, 2002
A little beta for the upper pitches... If you are going to continue after pitch 1 do not move left to the anchor at the top of pitch one, head right to a different bolted anchor at the top of Camouflage and belay there (semi-hanging).

Pitch 2 starts with a tricky 10b move over a bulge above the belay and continues up a right-facing dihedral with raspberry bushes for a 100 feet to a comfortable belay ledge. Protect early on this pitch to avoid landing in your belayers lap (sorry Lindsay) and go in August for the best raspberries.

Pitch 3 cuts left on jugs up and around the corner to a slab (8+). Continue up the slab passing a band of loose rotten rock (5.8S) and belay on the large walk off ledge. Walk off to the left past the finish of Over The Hill. Jun 30, 2002
I agree with Tom. A fun route for a crack-head in any season. Feb 22, 2002
One of my favorite routes in the canyon. A good barometer for your early season crack head. Oct 17, 2001
To reduce the potential for a big ground fall, I recommend placing some Spectra cord around a downward pointing horn of sorts about ten feet above the initial corner. Also, a number 3 Camalot is helpful for backing up the old pin just before the roof. Aug 29, 2001