Type: Trad, Sport, 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (6)
FA: Ed Webster, Bill Feiges, Leondard Coyne, 1979
Page Views: 9,528 total · 43/month
Shared By: David Benson on May 26, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Rossiter gives this route an S rating and I disagree. The bolts are far by Sport Park standards, but the climbing isn't dangerous. Rossiter grades the route as 11b, but this pitch is considerably harder than either Aerohead or Aeronaut which are both graded 11b as well.

Start in the dihedral just to the right of Over the Hill.

P1. Climb up the corner about 20' and move right below a flake. Make a tricky move around the corner and clip the first bolt. Continue up the arete, the crux is near the third bolt. After the fourth bolt you can either swing back to the face or (as I did) traverse right across one flake into a large, left-facing flake. Pull over this flake and then move back left around the arete. Traverse left to a hand crack, then traverse up and right. Belay below the roof.

P2. We continued on Aerohead, but there is a second pitch. Pitch 1 and 2 may be combined for one long lead.

Protection

Rack to a #3.5 Friend, QDs

Photos