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Areas in Rincon

Rincon - Center Route & R 21 / 4 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Rincon - L of Center Route 30 / 6 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 31
Elevation: 7,047 ft
GPS: 39.934, -105.29 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 81,778 total, 573/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

Rincon is a small but amazing crag with probably the highest density of quality routes in all of Eldorado Canyon State Park. Rincon, for those unfamiliar with Spanish, means corner. Indeed, soaring corners abound here along with impeccable face climbs sprinkled with the occasional roof or crack system. While nearly all the climbs here are in the moderate range, certainly the 5.10s-5.11s are better represented. Spice flavors significant sections of rock here. This is not the cinnamon and nutmeg variety but of the "can't just take a whipper anywhere" flavor. Perhaps, it is even the birthplace for the Colorado headpointing subsociety. There is little for the low or high end climber here, but there is much to feed the soul of a large percentage of climbers. The views are soothing and extend to the continental divide. It's worth the walk.

For some of the routes, the first pitch may be climbed and rapped off, but you will miss much if you only do the first pitch (e.g.Rincon and Aerospace are 4-pitch climbs). Although there are a few bolted lines, you will likely need your rack and protection skills to succeed here.

Often on a nice weekend, for good reason, this wall along with the West Ridge can be very popular with climbers. Its southern exposure makes it particularly pleasant during cooler months although early days in summer months can be delightful as well. Early in the day, this crag does offer shade.

The list of first ascentionists at this crag are amazing. They include: Kor, Ament, Dalke, Hurley, Culp, Olevsky, Erickson, Duncan, Ferguson, Candelaria, R. Briggs, B. Briggs, D. Hunter, Piana, Webster, Coyne, Hare, Rossiter, Archer, Sharp, Hersey, Achey, P. Adams, Goddard, B. Miller, S. Levin, among others.

Particular images from this crag lie resilient in the memories of those who aspire to climb smoothly here. They include Skip Guerin barefoot climbing Wendego in Glenn Randall's Vertigo Games and images of Derek Hersey so smooth physically and mentally on Center Route. As Steve Levin notes, there is excellent footage of the late Cameron Tague working Evictor in P. Mortimer's Scary Faces

There are so many fine routes here! Some of the best include: Over and Out, 5.8; Emerald City, 5.9; Over the Hill, 5.10b; Aerial Book, 5.11a; Aerospace, 5.11b s; Rincon, 5.11a/b; Center Route, 5.11a/b; Climb of the Century, 5.11c s; Wendego, 5.12a/b s; Camoflauge, 5.12c; & Evictor, 5.12c/d s.

Descents include some rappels or downclimbing gullies left or right of the crag.

Note, in particular for the Over the Hill area, there are lots of loose rock sitting on ledges. Do not sit here without being aware of what is above you. Also, note there is some poison ivy here, especially below Rincon. This is not a dog or kid-friendly area.

Note, if anyone has particularly good base digital photos for rendering a topo for this page, please let me know.
Seasonal Closures Details

Getting There

The quickest way is to take the Rincon Cutoff Trail, which branches off of the Eldo Trail at the far end of the canyon. This trail cuts across a talus field near the base of the wall and deposits you around the Center Route. The wall may also be reached from the West Ridge--just continue hiking up the trail.

55 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Rincon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over and Out
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Emerald City
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five-Ten Crack
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Over the Hill
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rincon
Trad 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Point Break
Trad, Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Aerial Book
Trad, TR 2 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Center Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Climb Of The Century
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aerospace
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spicoli
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts
Trad, TR
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
The Evictor
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Fraid Line
Trad
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
The Final Eviction (aka Freeline)
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Over and Out Rincon - L of Center Route 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Emerald City Rincon - L of Center Route 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Five-Ten Crack Rincon - Center Route & R 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Over the Hill Rincon - L of Center Route 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Rincon Rincon - Center Route & R 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Point Break Rincon - Center Route & R 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Aerial Book Rincon - L of Center Route 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad, TR 2 pitches
Center Route Rincon - Center Route & R 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Climb Of The Century Rincon - L of Center Route 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Aerospace Rincon - L of Center Route 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Spicoli Rincon - Center Route & R 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts Rincon - Center Route & R 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, TR
The Evictor Rincon - L of Center Route 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 Trad
Fraid Line Rincon - L of Center Route 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 Trad
The Final Eviction (aka Fre… Rincon - L of Center Route 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Trad
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Travis Hainsworth 1
Salt Lake City, Utah
Travis Hainsworth 1   Salt Lake City, Utah
Found some gear hiking out, so if you left/lost some stuff, pm me with what it is, and we can meet up. Dec 3, 2017

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