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Routes in Rincon - Center Route & R
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Another Pipeline Bonecrusher T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bulging Codpiece (submitted as On the Crest) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Camouflage S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Center Route T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Concentric T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cosmic Wave T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Counterstroke T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Five-Eight Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Five-Ten Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Front Side Lip Smack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Green Room, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Killing Fields, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Mind Over Matter T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mind Your Bulging Codpiece T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Neato T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Outer Limbits T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Point Break T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Reveley-Hunter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Rincon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rincon Dink T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Rincon Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rinodina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Spicoli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Toprope Left of Spicoli TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Warp Riders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: |
Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, Grade II
Fixed Hardware
(20) |
| FA: | [Richard Rossiter] |
| Page Views: | 8,061 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is a good varied route, a minor classic. Start [uphill] from Five Eight Crack, it is hard to describe the location of this route, consult [Rossiter's] guide, and look for a left-trending rotten band of rock with a bolt low down on it.
Pitch one - 5.7s, climb an easy ramp up to the base of the left-trending rotten band.
Pitch two 5.10+ - a great exciting and sustained pitch, start with some 9+ moves up into the band protected by a bolt and fixed pro. Follow the band up twenty feet to a small, right-facing dihedral, dink in some dicey RPs (a TCU might work here, but I used it [earlier] in the pitch, so I can't testify), and pull some delicate moves up the dihedral to a bolt. Clip the bolt, and go up a .10b face to another bolt (ten foot gap between the two). Then run the rope out to a tree on a ledge. This pitch is the crux, it is sustained and one must place gear.
[Pitch three] - from the tree, follow bolts out right over a dicey overhang (8+) and up a devious 5.9 face to the finale: a contrived bolted arete that is very well-protected (.11a). [Rossiter's] guidebook shows that you can break the last pitch into two, this might help with rope drag, the belay spot does not have any good anchor possibilities, it is best to avoid this optional belay.
Pitch one - 5.7s, climb an easy ramp up to the base of the left-trending rotten band.
Pitch two 5.10+ - a great exciting and sustained pitch, start with some 9+ moves up into the band protected by a bolt and fixed pro. Follow the band up twenty feet to a small, right-facing dihedral, dink in some dicey RPs (a TCU might work here, but I used it [earlier] in the pitch, so I can't testify), and pull some delicate moves up the dihedral to a bolt. Clip the bolt, and go up a .10b face to another bolt (ten foot gap between the two). Then run the rope out to a tree on a ledge. This pitch is the crux, it is sustained and one must place gear.
[Pitch three] - from the tree, follow bolts out right over a dicey overhang (8+) and up a devious 5.9 face to the finale: a contrived bolted arete that is very well-protected (.11a). [Rossiter's] guidebook shows that you can break the last pitch into two, this might help with rope drag, the belay spot does not have any good anchor possibilities, it is best to avoid this optional belay.
Protection
The second pitch is tricky to protect, bring a few extra RPs. The bolts on this pitch [aren't] too close together either.
Per Gregger Man: there are updated anchors at P2 to replace the small tree and at the summit to replace the very dead tree that once was a belay/rappel. After topping out on P4, rappel either direction from a vertical anchor. Do a short rap back to P3 anchors or full length to get to near the base of Gambit avoiding the loose gully.
Per Gregger Man: there are updated anchors at P2 to replace the small tree and at the summit to replace the very dead tree that once was a belay/rappel. After topping out on P4, rappel either direction from a vertical anchor. Do a short rap back to P3 anchors or full length to get to near the base of Gambit avoiding the loose gully.
Photos
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