Type: Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, Grade II Fixed Hardware (20)
FA: [Richard Rossiter]
Page Views: 7,979 total · 28/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a good varied route, a minor classic. Start [uphill] from Five Eight Crack, it is hard to describe the location of this route, consult [Rossiter's] guide, and look for a left-trending rotten band of rock with a bolt low down on it.

Pitch one - 5.7s, climb an easy ramp up to the base of the left-trending rotten band.

Pitch two 5.10+ - a great exciting and sustained pitch, start with some 9+ moves up into the band protected by a bolt and fixed pro. Follow the band up twenty feet to a small, right-facing dihedral, dink in some dicey RPs (a TCU might work here, but I used it [earlier] in the pitch, so I can't testify), and pull some delicate moves up the dihedral to a bolt. Clip the bolt, and go up a .10b face to another bolt (ten foot gap between the two). Then run the rope out to a tree on a ledge. This pitch is the crux, it is sustained and one must place gear.

[Pitch three] - from the tree, follow bolts out right over a dicey overhang (8+) and up a devious 5.9 face to the finale: a contrived bolted arete that is very well-protected (.11a). [Rossiter's] guidebook shows that you can break the last pitch into two, this might help with rope drag, the belay spot does not have any good anchor possibilities, it is best to avoid this optional belay.

Protection Suggest change

The second pitch is tricky to protect, bring a few extra RPs. The bolts on this pitch [aren't] too close together either.

Per Gregger Man: there are updated anchors at P2 to replace the small tree and at the summit to replace the very dead tree that once was a belay/rappel. After topping out on P4, rappel either direction from a vertical anchor. Do a short rap back to P3 anchors or full length to get to near the base of Gambit avoiding the loose gully.