Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Chris Revely and Diana Hunter
Page Views: 988 total · 18/month
Shared By: mountainhick on Jul 22, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


This is a bit of an adventure pitch right of Rincon's second pitch. We started from the 2 bolt anchor for Five-Eight Crack after climbing Five-Ten Crack as a first pitch. This is a good place to start the pitch due to a hefty crop of poison ivy in the crack on the low angle slab leading to the corner. If you just continued up from 5.10 crack to do it in a single long pitch, dragging the rope through the poison ivy seems inevitable. Likewise, I would not want to attempt it from first pitch of Rincon right through the poison ivy.

So climb from the Five-Eight Crack anchor up and right and sling the small tree to keep the rope way to the right. It adds a little rope drag but keeps the rope out of the poison ivy.

It is a little "R" to get into the corner (5.8 or so) while keeping the rope air born out of the PI and get your first piece(s). If you are comfortable leading 5.10, it isn't bad.

Then into the fun varied corner. This has some typical, fiddly Eldo pro placements, but once fiddled, the pro is quite good. There are some spicy moves above pro and some placements can be hard to see when placing. After an old pin on the left (with placements to back this up), climb left up the slightly overhanging arete until you get established on the face to the left (a little run out, PG-13). Climb up into the corner under the roof, and through it, or step out left earlier to pass the overhang to the left. If you clip the pin under the roof, extend it or expect bad rope drag. Follow the crack above the roof to a couple face moves ending up on the sloping ledge leading left to the Rincon pitch 2 anchor.


This is the next right-facing corner right of second pitch of Rincon.

Rap to the Five Eight Crack's anchor, and do another rap to the ground.


Standard rack up to #3. Small Tricams also useful.


D. Snyder
Golden, CO
  5.10b PG13
D. Snyder   Golden, CO
  5.10b PG13
This pitch is excellent and well-protected! I've avoided it for years due to the R rating, but I was able to place gear almost anywhere I wanted. It was definitely NOT runout or dangerous in any way. I used a few small cams from 00ish-0.4, doubles 0.4-1, and one #2 and a ton of small nuts/RPs. We combined this with 5.10 crack, and with the use of long slings on the highest tree above 5.8 crack, I was easily able to keep the rope away from the poison ivy and didn't have crazy rope drag.

Interestingly, Levin's guide calls this exact line the Reveley-Hunter and rates it 10c PG-13. I'd call it 10b G. Get on it, it's very worth your time. I like it better than the standard second pitch of Rincon. Sep 17, 2014
Black Hawk, CO
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
Yes, you are right. I checked Levin and Rossiter's books, and Briggs' variation stays in the initial corner until traversing left at the final angled ledge to the anchor. The description is for the Revely-Hunter route.
I think a G rating is a bit optimistic, but I am glad you felt secure on it! Sep 18, 2014