Reveley-Hunter
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 2.9 from 14 votes
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Chris Revely and Diana Hunter |
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Shared By: | mountainhick on Jul 22, 2014 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is a bit of an adventure pitch right of Rincon's second pitch. We started from the 2 bolt anchor for Five-Eight Crack after climbing Five-Ten Crack as a first pitch. This is a good place to start the pitch due to a hefty crop of poison ivy in the crack on the low angle slab leading to the corner. Some people have successfully rigged pro to keep the line out of the poison ivy continuing straight on from Five-Ten Crack, but it would be easy to to drag the rope through the poison ivy without due consideration. I would not want to attempt it from first pitch of Rincon due to the poison ivy issue.
So climb from the Five-Eight Crack anchor up and right and sling the small tree to keep the rope way to the right. It adds a little rope drag but keeps the rope out of the poison ivy.
It is a little "R" to get into the corner (5.8 or so) while keeping the rope air born out of the PI and get your first piece(s). If you are comfortable leading 5.10, it isn't bad.
Then into the fun varied corner. This has some typical, fiddly Eldo pro placements, but once fiddled, the pro is quite good. There are some spicy moves above pro and some placements can be hard to see when placing. After an old pin on the left (with placements to back this up), climb left up the slightly overhanging arete until you get established on the face to the left (a little run out, PG-13). Climb up into the corner under the roof, and through it, or step out left earlier to pass the overhang to the left. If you clip the pin under the roof, extend it or expect bad rope drag. Follow the crack above the roof to a couple face moves ending up on the sloping ledge leading left to the Rincon pitch 2 anchor.
So climb from the Five-Eight Crack anchor up and right and sling the small tree to keep the rope way to the right. It adds a little rope drag but keeps the rope out of the poison ivy.
It is a little "R" to get into the corner (5.8 or so) while keeping the rope air born out of the PI and get your first piece(s). If you are comfortable leading 5.10, it isn't bad.
Then into the fun varied corner. This has some typical, fiddly Eldo pro placements, but once fiddled, the pro is quite good. There are some spicy moves above pro and some placements can be hard to see when placing. After an old pin on the left (with placements to back this up), climb left up the slightly overhanging arete until you get established on the face to the left (a little run out, PG-13). Climb up into the corner under the roof, and through it, or step out left earlier to pass the overhang to the left. If you clip the pin under the roof, extend it or expect bad rope drag. Follow the crack above the roof to a couple face moves ending up on the sloping ledge leading left to the Rincon pitch 2 anchor.
Location
This is the next right-facing corner right of second pitch of Rincon.
Rap to the Five Eight Crack's anchor, and do another rap to the ground.
Rap to the Five Eight Crack's anchor, and do another rap to the ground.
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