Type: Sport Fixed Hardware (8)
FA: Michaels, Meyers, Piana
Page Views: 5,407 total · 23/month
Shared By: Steve Levin on Oct 23, 2001 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Per Adam Brink: this is a truly stellar pitch of slab climbing on bullet stone. There is a dangerous direct start, but most people go up the first 20 feet of Rincon, place some protection, and traverse left to the first bolt. From the first bolt to the little roof, it is devious, nails thin, and consistently difficult climbing. I have yet to see this onsighted on lead. Any takers on that glory?

After the roof, most climbers go right into the short, right-facing corner. This makes the bolts hard to clip (or even see!), but it is the easiest way. There is a direct version going straight up the bolted arete that has been toproped but not yet led.

A big part of the challenge of this route is finding the holds. Please don't use or leave tick marks! - not only does it greatly reduce the difficulty for the next climber, but it ruins any chance of a true onsight.

The difficulty of this route is hard to gauge. Just check out the suggested ratings! They go from 5.11c (totally insane!) to 5.19c/d (from one of the most well rounded climbers anywhere). Personally, it took as much effort to send as The Evictor or Eldo 5.12+.

Protection

QDs.

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