Bulging Codpiece (submitted as On the Crest)
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Trad, 126 ft (38 m) |
FA: | S. Guerin, Miller |
Page Views: | 1,923 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | david goldstein on Mar 5, 2005 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is a worthwhile variation to Rincon pitch 2. From the belay at the end of Rincon P1, ascend a 20' series of broken corners in the left wall of the large Rincon dihedral; this crux section is strenuous, especially placing gear, but the moves aren't too hard. As the corner ends, pull onto a slab. From here, you can either go left into Center Route's second pitch or follow OTC straight up the slab. The slab option is nice, low angle face climbing up to 5.9 with some big runouts. At some point, traverse back right from the slab into the the Rincon corner. We traversed about 20' below the anchors at the end of Rincon P2 which was fun but required some work before, during, and afterwards to keep the rope running well. A smoother alternative might be to continue up the slab until level with the belay and then traverse easily right.
There is a little loose rock in the crux section.
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