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Routes in Rincon - Center Route & R

Another Pipeline Bonecrusher T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Camouflage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Center Route T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Concentric T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Counterstroke T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Five-Eight Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Five-Ten Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Front Side Lip Smack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Green Room, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Killing Fields, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Mind Over Matter T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Neato T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
On the Crest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Outer Limbits T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Point Break T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Reveley-Hunter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rincon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rincon Dink T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Rincon Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rinodina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Spicoli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Toprope Left of Spicoli TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warp Riders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: John Christie (onsight) & Steve Dieckhoff
Page Views: 138 total · 1/month
Shared By: steve dieckhoff on Nov 8, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


p 182 new Rossiter Eldo guide


P1 - There is a 'rotten band' and ledge that runs across the face. Near the middle is a wide crack. Climb over the bulge to the right of the wide crack. A #5 Camalot is the easiest to place to protect this section but a #4 somewhat higher has merit. Aim (5.10b s) for a slot which would have been the continuation of the wide crack had not the connection fallen away. Once above this next bulge follow the left thin crack on solid rock to a belay in a recess.

P2 - The crack continues over the bulge above, and up a slab. A tricky section (5.9 s) leads to a left-facing wide crack.


The large cam is a lot closer that it feels when you're in the middle of the ROTTEN BAND and the thin crack on pitch 1 is well-protected and quite elegant.

As far as I know this route has only had one other ascent. Expect some lichen.


Small stoppers to large cams (#4 or #5 Camalot)


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steve dieckhoff
steve dieckhoff  
I hope the reference to p182 Rossiter's guide isn't confusing-that is where it probably would appear if we'd done this in time.

We christened the rotten band THE REEF in keeping with the crag's surfing theme. Nov 9, 2001
Eric Johnson and I did the second ascent about two weeks after this route was put up (the chalk was still fresh). It's pretty good and well worth doing. It is a little gripper at the bulge, and a wee-bit hard for 10b, but the crack above is sweeeeet! Mar 15, 2002

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