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Routes in Rincon - Center Route & R

Another Pipeline Bonecrusher T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Camouflage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Center Route T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Concentric T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Counterstroke T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Five-Eight Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Five-Ten Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Front Side Lip Smack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Green Room, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Killing Fields, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Mind Over Matter T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Neato T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
On the Crest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Outer Limbits T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Point Break T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Reveley-Hunter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rincon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rincon Dink T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Rincon Light T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rinodina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Spicoli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Toprope Left of Spicoli TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warp Riders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Sport Fixed Hardware (7)
FA: Mark and Scott Tarrant
Page Views: 2,915 total · 14/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Apr 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Spicoli is located between Another Pipeline Bonecrusher and Tsunami on the extreme right (east) side of Rincon. The route ascends a direct line up the blank looking orange-brown wall, through the right margin of the obvious roof. There are three cruxes including two ways to get to one of the bolts(one being harder). In all, the line is a combination of 3 star moves, but relying on at least a couple of questionable flake-like holds that if yarded off may "at worse" only change the grade.... A tricky onsight, awesome moves, cool roof, a singular NEW route!

Protection

#2 and #1 1/2 Friend at start, 7 QDs, 2 bolt lower off...60m rope recommended to lower all the way (25m rap!! (with no QDs clipped)).
Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
Joe Huggins   Grand Junction
Alex said this was a fun line, and he's right. I took a good little whipper tiptoeing on a portable foothold. The finish is a little goofy. May 23, 2002
I came across this fun route while walking off of Rincon, and spent some time on it. It's tricky because it's easy to go the "wrong way" in a few spots--Don't go too far left at bolt 2--At bolt 4 go left at .9 or up at .10--Staying left of bolt 5 is about .10-, right is .10+. The moves over the final roof are very exciting and the finish seemed fine to me. I didn't see any "loose" holds but several flakes are fragile. I made it down with a 55m rope after unclipping all the draws. The route sure looks a lot harder from the ground than it actually is. Steep, interesting and fun. Good stuff. C.E. Jul 23, 2002
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
Take a look at the beta photo for the route "point break". The photo was taken before the bolts were in place. You can see some white tape where the bolts were palced. Dec 22, 2003
I think the white tape you see in that photo is on a proposed route just left of Spicoli. The proposal was pulled due, I think, to negative feedback during the review process. Spicoli sure seemed harder than .11b to me, especially for the onsight (.11c/d). Dec 22, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Initially, I too thought that Spicoli was more difficult than moderate 5.11. However, most of the perceived dificulty may arise from the inobvious moves. It seemed hard to read and as a result it was easy to move into the wrong sequence. Done without any of the errors, no move seemed harder than moderate 5.11, even the roof move. I would also concur with the notion of three cruxes, with the middle being more like 5.10+. Moving over the roof is probably solid 5.11 and the early crux (3rd clip) is a bit easier, but still 5.11. Overall, Spicoli has a lot of continuity. If you can hang out long enough to do the moves correctly, and not get suckered off line, it would tick in at mid 5.11 - as advertised. Dec 23, 2003
Bob Rotert
  5.11c
Bob Rotert  
  5.11c
This is a good route. For an opinion on rating. I think the submitted rating of 11b is a bit low unless you have previous knowledge of the route. Routes should be rated for the on sight not after you know the moves & have been on them. I have seen several strong partners fully capable of flashing 11c end up not flashing this route. It seems to be hard for folks to see the correct moves on this first time up and if you are not strong melt down at the middle crux. But that's okay let's keep the standards in Eldo from sinking to Boulder Canyon levels. Jan 9, 2004
Q B
Estes Park
Q B   Estes Park
A great little route. I agree, though. The climbing is techy and strenuous without prior knowledge. My partner and I did the low crux differently and both were hanging on for dear life. I did not feel I read the sequence properly but am not clear how I would make it more efficient. It felt more difficult than 11b, to me...but that's Eldo :) Nov 28, 2015