Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Derek Hersey
Page Views: 843 total · 5/month
Shared By: William McGehee on Apr 18, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


This route is only one pitch different from the popular route Rincon. Climb first two pitches of Rincon to the bolts, chains, and slings atop pitch two. From here, work right approximately 15 feet towards an old bolt hanger, clip, then move straight up towards a shallow square trough. Before entering the trough, place green/yellow aliens vertically in the horizontal crack off to the left. These should be your last gear for awhile unless you bring those ballnutz for the tiny hole left by the knifeblade I ripped out while on a 40 foot speed-descent... Move gradually left and up on a lichen-covered face with few footholds to eventually gain the rap anchor atop Rincon's pitch four. From here, walk-off according to the Rossiter guide (south), rap Rincon (argh!), or move up to higher routes on the wall.


Rack up for Rincon, emphasis on black-orange aliens. They saved MY ass... Maybe some ballnutz too.


William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
As stated, I took a 40 foot whip here today. VERY scary. Do not climb this route unless you are extremely confident on hard 5.10's and don't mind running it out a bit. The reason my fall was so great was due to the fact that my fall pulled out an old knifeblade. I approached the variation a bit differently; I climbed up to 10' below Rincon's infamous suspect piton then traversed directly right into the 'trough.' After clipping the knifeblade, I moved up approximately 15 feet where I faltered and fell, blowing out the old gear and swinging over to my aliens that I mentioned in the description.

Query: Does anyone know to whom this fixed gear belonged? I have an irking feeling it was Derek Hersey's. It was hammered into the bottom and south-side of the shallow trough's seam and has faded red paint near the eye. Any information concerning this piece would be much appreciated.

To all approaching this climb (the rare as the lichen's abundance suggests lack of activity): DO NOT RELY ON THE FIXED GEAR! My sincere apologies for the inadvertent removal of a crucial piece. I don't think RPs will fit in the scar, so come prepared. Again, I apologize. Please direct any concerns about this act my way.

Thank you,~Wm Apr 19, 2004
No need to apologize. Fixed pins are dubious at best. I hope it doesn't get replaced. If a ballnut works, great. If not, a bolt should replace the fixed pro if it is neccessary. Apr 20, 2004
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
Chad, you bring up an interesting point. Should gear essential to a climber's safe passage be replaced if pulled on an obscure route? As I said, this route seems about as popular as To RP or Not To Be. Given the first ascentionist, should the FHC consider preserving the gear on this route for historical purposes? I highly doubt a ballnut would fit in the scar as blades are very thin. I think the only way to protect this route it to either replace the pin or climb it on toprope.

To all: I'd like to keep this thread local to the route so it doesn't get lost in the spray of the Fixed Hardwear thread, but if your comments pertain to this situation, I'd like to think they are welcome in the side comment area. Apr 21, 2004

I've never climbed the route, and as such probably should have kept my mouth shut, so to speak. However, I am inclined, for some reason, to chime in when anything pertains to fixed protection. I have real issues, most likely personal, with pitons as fixed pro. They are unreliable and, in my opinion, do way more damage to the rock than a bolt.

I would hope that the piton is not replaced. And I believe, under the current Eldo restrictions, this can be done without approval. IF someone has a strong interest in this climb, it would be great to pursue a bolt for the fixed protection if natural gear is not possible and if fixed protection is actually needed in this spot (ie. the nature of the climb is significantly altered without it).

My unsolicited 2 cents


Oh, and I wanted to state that I didn't think your apology was necessary in any way ,shape, or form. The piton was bunk, as most of the are. Apr 21, 2004