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Routes in Rincon - Center Route & R
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Another Pipeline Bonecrusher T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bulging Codpiece (submitted as On the Crest) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Camouflage S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Center Route T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Concentric T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cosmic Wave T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Counterstroke T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Five-Eight Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Five-Ten Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Front Side Lip Smack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Green Room, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Killing Fields, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Mind Over Matter T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mind Your Bulging Codpiece T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Neato T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Outer Limbits T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Point Break T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Reveley-Hunter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Rincon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rincon Dink T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Rincon Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rinodina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Spicoli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Toprope Left of Spicoli TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Warp Riders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,594 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Patrik on Jul 24, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route is for those of you who lead at 5.9 to 10a level and always wondered what's on top of the Rincon crag.
P1: climb the same as for the first pitch of Rincon (5.9+, G).
P2: climb the same as for the second pitch of Rincon (5.9-, G). Pitch 1 and 2 can be combined into one stellar long pitch.
P3: from the two-pin and bolt anchor on Rincon, traverse left around the arete, then diagonal up left to join, and complete the third pitch of Center Route to a large ledge with a house-sized boulder (5.8, PG). This pitch is graded 5.8 PG-13 in Levin's guidebook, but evaluate the holds in the broken section, and you'll find plentiful of stable holds and good gear placements. For those of you who have trouble finding this line, it is the third weakness approximately 40 feet left of the Rincon crux corner.
P4: step around the house-sized boulder, and climb pitch 4 of Rincon (in Rossiter's guidebook). This is a separate pitch in Levin's guidebook called Rincon Direct Finish. If you're shorter than 5'9", you might have trouble clipping the bolt (from standing on top of the boulder) mentioned in both guidebooks. Bring your small offset RPs for this pitch, otherwise you'll have a 25 foot runout at the top of the slab (5.9-, PG-13).
At the top of the slab, you have a few options:
A) with a 60m rope, you can step left about 8 feet, and continue up a corner system (about 5.6?), or you can step right 5 feet, and pick up a left-facing corner (also 5.6ish and a little cleaner). After topping out, there will be a 100 foot 3rd Class downhill and another 100 feet through looseness, and you're at the base of Gambit.
B) if you're not a fan of long pitches, you can head over to a belay ledge on the left with a tree. If you prefer to skip the easy finish, you can walk off to the left (north), which brings you down to the walkoff for the Over the Hill area.
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