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Routes in Rincon - Center Route & R

Another Pipeline Bonecrusher T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Camouflage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Center Route T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Concentric T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Counterstroke T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Five-Eight Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Five-Ten Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Front Side Lip Smack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Green Room, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Killing Fields, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Mind Over Matter T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Neato T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
On the Crest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Outer Limbits T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Point Break T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Reveley-Hunter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rincon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rincon Dink T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Rincon Light T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rinodina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Spicoli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Toprope Left of Spicoli TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warp Riders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,564 total, 24/month
Shared By: Patrik on Jul 24, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is for those of you who lead at 5.9 to 10a level and always wondered what's on top of the Rincon crag.

P1: Same as the first pitch of Rincon (5.9+, G).

P2: Same as the second pitch of Rincon (5.9-, G). Pitch 1 and 2 can be combined into one stellar long pitch.

P3: From the two-pin and bolt anchor on Rincon, traverse left around the arete and then diagonal up left to join and complete the third pitch of Center Route to a large ledge with a house-sized boulder (5.8, PG). This pitch is graded 5.8 R in Levin's book, but evaluate the holds in the broken section, and you'll find plentiful of stable holds and good gear placements.

P4: Step around the house-sized boulder and climb pitch 4 of Rincon (in Rossiter's guidebook). This is a separate pitch in Levin's book called Rincon Direct Finish. If you're shorter than 5'9", you might have trouble clipping the bolt (from standing on top of the boulder) mentioned in both guide books. Bring your small offset RPs for this pitch, otherwise you'll have a 25 foot runout at the top of the slab (5.9-, PG).
With a 60m rope, you could head straight up a right-facing corner (about 5.6) after the slab. Otherwise, you need to head over to the belay ledge on the left and ...

P5: From the belay tree, you have a couple of options: Walk off to the north (which brings you down to the walk-off for the Over the Hill area), rap the last pitch and then walk off to the north, or pick a line of your choice (5.4-5.6) to top out. I suggest not to top out as the walk-off from the top (going down to the base of Gambit) is quite loose and dirty.

Protection

Some smallish RPs for pitch 4 (I was very happy to have a red offset DMM peenut here, which I think is about the same as a #2 or #3 offset RP).

Photos

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Tom Waits  
 
I do not recommend pitch 3. It's a traverse through a choss pile and is difficult to protect, but more important, there is a high likelihood of dislodging soccerball-sized rocks onto people at the base of the crag. You could kill someone. Dec 31, 2016