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Routes in Rincon - Center Route & R

Another Pipeline Bonecrusher T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Camouflage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Center Route T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Concentric T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Counterstroke T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Five-Eight Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Five-Ten Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Front Side Lip Smack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Green Room, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Killing Fields, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Mind Over Matter T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Neato T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
On the Crest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Outer Limbits T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Point Break T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Reveley-Hunter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rincon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rincon Dink T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Rincon Light T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rinodina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Spicoli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Toprope Left of Spicoli TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warp Riders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, TR
FA: B DeMallie, M. Climton, 1988
Page Views: 589 total, 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route moves up the face just to the left of 5.8 crack. Follow the directions to 5.8 Crack at Rincon (or 5.10 Crack or Rincon itself) and look just to the right. There are 2 huge buckets just behind the large tree to start this route.

The [initial] moves are an awkward start, not so much for their inherent difficulty, but for trying to avoid leaning back on the tree.

After 20' or so of somewhat hard moves, the route becomes less defined. The rock forced me to the left slightly, nearly onto 5.8 Crack on my first try. On my second try I forced the line to the right and fell a few times. The route seems to be never done and the difficulty and lichen present would suggest that the route does move slightly left.

Protection

Well, you can step left every so often and place gear in "5.8 crack" or you can turn around and girth hitch a tree behind you with long slings. The tree is uncomfortably close (hard not to lean on it) for the first 10 feet, and then gets too far away after 30' up. Really, this is best TR'd from the tree ont he ledge and to the left, above 5.8 crack.

Photos

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Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
On TR, on the upper part I went further right than Tony apparently did, to a vague crack that is left of the crack of Neato. This seemed like the obvious thing to do, but looking down from above, it looks like the original line may have gone straight up the face. The way I did it, the crux was the starting moves at about hard 10, and then maybe easy 10 after that. Jan 1, 2006
Sorry, the route is just to the RIGHT of 5.8 crack. It is to the left of a "crack" I call "The Pinch Flake. (5.9)"

-T. Nov 14, 2001