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Routes in Rincon - Center Route & R

Another Pipeline Bonecrusher T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Camouflage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Center Route T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Concentric T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Counterstroke T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Five-Eight Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Five-Ten Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Front Side Lip Smack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Green Room, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Killing Fields, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Mind Over Matter T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Neato T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
On the Crest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Outer Limbits T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Point Break T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Reveley-Hunter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rincon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rincon Dink T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Rincon Light T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rinodina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Spicoli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Toprope Left of Spicoli TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Warp Riders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, TR
FA: FA Olevsky, 1975, FFA Ken Duncan & Scott Blunk, 1977? Chris Piesker and Christian Griffith, 1980?
Page Views: 2,678 total, 13/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is the route to the right of 5.10 crack, it follows incipient seams up a slightly less than vertical wall. While only 40 feet long this is a pretty classic toprope, it can be toproped off of the tree atop 5.8 crack along with some gear out left for a directional. Short, but it has some classic face moves. (a little soft for the grade too). [It is also known as Thunderbolts or Thunderbolt]

Protection

I have not (yet) lead this excellent toprope, but have inspected the protection and was able to get in reasonable gear at all the hard parts, back when they didn't have micro gear this was an x rated lead.

Photos

I was a regular climbing partner of Alec Sharp, Chris Piesker, and Christian Griffith back in the day. This climb was first done by Chris Piesker and Christian Griffith in 1980. Alec did many new climbs in Eldo, but this wasn't one of them. May 23, 2017
Brian Weinstein
  5.11c
Brian Weinstein  
  5.11c
Ken, tough to imagine a FFA without RPs. Great route. Mar 5, 2008
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11+
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11+
I lead this in Nov. of '06 and found the gear quite adequate. I placed an orange, green, blue and black Alien on the lower section and even fell on the black Alien a few times from the small roof. So, I think the route is pretty safe with the new micro cams that are available. Mar 22, 2007
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
 
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
 
My understanding is that Alec Sharp actually gave this route the name Raccoon Soup after he did it in the early eighties (?1981). I climbed with both Chris Peisker and his partner Coral Bowman when they were here in the '70s and hadn't heard that Chris had done this route but he certainly may have. Both Chris and Coral were excellent climbers and neat people who were a major part of the climbing community while they were here. Ultimately who did a route first really doesn't make a big difference to me, having good quality climbing available is the important thing. Personally I'd take a a repeat of a great route over the first ascent of a so-so route anyday. Aug 27, 2004
Chris Archer
  5.11d
Chris Archer  
  5.11d
It's my understanding that [Chris] Peisker first led this stellar pitch in 77. I suspect the differences of opinion regarding the difficulty and protection ultimately reduces to height. Climbers 5'8" and under will have a difficult time placing the RPs at the roof. For me, the placements are either blind or difficult, time consuming and skin shredding. If the placements at the roof blew as you pulled the crux, you might be hurt in the fall, although probably not badly. May 10, 2004
[Definitely] no reason for the 's' rating lots of gear, only complaint is that it is short. Nov 3, 2003
adam brink
Boulder, CO
  5.11+
adam brink   Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Don't be put off by the above comment if your considering leading this gem. I found a good stance for every placement and to top it off the gear is really obvious (small cams and RPs). This was probably my 5th or 6th 5.11 in Eldo and didn't feel that bad for the grade. Its reputation makes it out to be far harder than it actually is. Dec 4, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c PG13
I'd give it an PG-13 on the current scale because it is hard to hang in there and make the placements. The stances are not all positive and I think that it's hard to fiddle in the gear. Oct 8, 2002
Whatever name you choose to use, this is an excellent and sustained route. The only thing that has changed about this route is that, with modern gear, it should not even get a severe rating. At every crux there is at least one bomber RP or small cam placement that would hold a good whipper. A definite must do and a classic lead in my book. Feb 5, 2002
I watched someone lead this route today (3/4/01). It was very impressive. The route apparently had good gear cause he sewed it up like I sewed up 5.10 crack, with seven pieces including a cam or two!! Jan 1, 2001