Type: | Trad, 470 ft (142 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Andy Donson and Mike Weeks, 12th December 2019 |
Page Views: | 3,657 total · 62/month |
Shared By: | Andy Donson on Dec 18, 2019 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
The unlikely looking zone to the right of the Rincon dihedral delivers a stack of 5.11 climbing and a 12a crimpy face crux.
Many thanks to ACE for their help with the approval and hardware that made this route happen.
- 5.8 or 5.10a (70 feet). Climb Five Eight or Five Ten Crack, and continue up and right for about 20 feet to below where the wall steepens (gear belay).
- 5.12a (180 feet). Climb a thin face past 6 bolts (12a) to a shelf below the rotten band. Climb this (2 bolts) to reach a large roof with a conspicuous, triangular hole that provides a second crux (11, bolt). Above, trend up and right to a hard bulge (11, 2 bolts) and then a shallow, angling crack (gear) which is followed to the ledge system beneath the Reef (2 bolt anchor).
- 5.11c (120 feet). A few feet up the ramp to the left is a small pine tree - the route trends slightly rightwards through the Reef from here. Climb the steep, blocky wall passing 3 well camouflaged bolts to reach the beautiful, clean, rectangular face. Climb this (crux - 3 bolts). Continue up an easier slab (1 bolt), and then pull the bulge at an obvious yellow crack (gear) to a sloping ledge (2 bolt anchor).
- 5.6 (100 feet). Climb the slabby groove above, then trend up and left below a large roof to an easy crack leading to a belay at the crest of Rincon buttress.
Many thanks to ACE for their help with the approval and hardware that made this route happen.
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