Type: Trad, 4 pitches Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: G. Hurley & B. Culp, 1965 FFA: of finish Erickson & Walsh
Page Views: 706 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 21, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


This route is near Point Break, and shares a small amount of terrain with that route, but is not very similar. Refer to the Point Break description to help locate this climb.

The first pitch is difficult to locate and is a little grungy, the climbing gets better with altitude.

Pitch 1 & 2: On a face somewhat left of Point Break, and just left of a "black lichened, right-facing dihedral" start climbing an easy crack. Theoretically, you would belay below a rotten band, but frankly, I didn't see much worth stopping for. After passing a small roof, close and on your right about 80' up, head sharply up and right to join the second pitch Point Break, sharinging the last 20' of the pitch. Belay on the belay tree as for Point Break.

WARNING: If you do not head hard right you may well instead end up going straight-up a vertical and even overhanging face to a right-facing, right-leaning lichenous dihedral. There is a lot of rotten rock on this 5.10-, VS variation. I refer to this as "Undertow." (no stars- complete bomb) There was some chalk crossing through 'Undertow' and further left, so I believe parts of it have been previously climbed, but have gone undocumented. I am not sure.

Pitch 3: From the belay tree, set a belay- the leader will have to walk 25 to 30 feet down and right on the rotten ledge to a large roof to start the pitch, because there is no good belay down there. Pull the roof to the face and arete above on secure, but possibly breakable holds with minimal gear below. This felt like 5.9+ to me. The gear would prevent a truly dangerous fall, but the ledge lurks just 8' below, so watch your ankles. After pulling the roof, continue up the face and arete on the right, passing an old bolt along the way. After 70' or so there will be a tree around the corner to the right, solidly rooted on a ledge in a dihedral; belay there.

Pitch 4: Go up and left above the dike you are standing near. Continue for 50 to 60 feet on 5.6 runout terrian until you reach the base of a massive, open-book dihedral. Climb up this dihedral and crack system to its overhanging top (5.9), where you pull up and left onto the slab at the bolted Point Break anchor.

Rap Point Break on 2 ropes or finish in a crack system in the corner above, shared with Point Break (5.5).


Standard rack: Set of nuts, small tricams and a set of cams. This route is somewhat runout due to face climbing and rock quality. If you end up off route, you may be climbing is VS territory. [Variation] "Undertow" is rated VS.